View Full Version : clamshell catches
I have been going thru my parts which I have collected for my build. I noticed that the clamshell latches which I bought seem to have a much larger base which fasten to the car than the originals had. Can anyone tell me if I have the wrong style or am I supposed to cut them down? This is not my car but I have the same latches. 4350
jeffdavison
06-04-2013, 05:43
X1/9 front roof catches need to be cut down. Here are some reference pics.
Also some close up shots showing the rubber backing pads that need fabrication.
JD
Ah, that explains it. Thanks. Is there any rhyme or reason as to the thickness of the rubber base? I would think with all that rubber there and the flexing that goes on trying to hold together the body panels, it would rip the bolts out of the fiberglass? Maybe there is a huge washer on the underside of the fiberglass?
strat24v
06-04-2013, 20:24
The rubber is there to keep the panel swage line lined up, look at the panel join again, closely. Fit m5 penny washers on the inside or make a one piece nut plate then bed it on a pad of wet glass fibre paste.
ducatiman
01-05-2013, 00:33
Just completed the refurbishment of the various X1/9 catches ready for installation onto the Stratos..............................the chrome is a bit clean for a rally car I know.
All original brackets were cut down to the required shape and then chromed along with the springs and the original pins, all handles were powder coated in black satin.
Reassembled with new stainless C Clips and washers.
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Wow, that makes the six I'm doing right at the moment look pathetic. (actually just checked this thread to look at the shape of the bases as I'm about to cut them) Where did you get the springs from?
ProtoTipo
01-05-2013, 07:30
The ends of the handles (black parts) on the rear of round arch group 4s, can need shortening. It depends exactly where they are positioned. Otherwise the ends touch the body before the catch is fully closed.
strat24v
01-05-2013, 07:40
No third holes drilled in the top sections?
ducatiman
01-05-2013, 07:51
The springs are the original's that have been cleaned and chromed, did the same for all the pins as well.
ducatiman
01-05-2013, 07:59
On the third hole I decided not to drill that as I have seen several installations without this with no problems. I will be installing a nice mounting bracket behind to ensure a good secure fixing and also these will be mounted on a hard plastic with a 2mm rubber against the bodywork. This will enable more acurate fitting and ensuring the correct position and the catch will not hit the body work.
Worried that the third hole is very close to the edge of the body work and if there is some hlding force on the catch could start to damage fibreglass.
Martin Crikey
02-10-2014, 21:43
On with fitting these Clamsheel catches, Should the handles touch the bodywork to stop anything getting hooked on them for the SVA and safety. Also on the top picture of this thread the catches are handles to the rear is this OK for the rear catches or would i find myself and car sent to the far corner should it ever make it to a club event.
Cheers
That first picture is mostly to show how the latches look before they are cut down. I would not use that pic as a guide for mounting position
hollytree
06-10-2014, 21:08
Is there a name of someone i can send my 4 lower catches to to be modified from the wide 3 hole base to the slim 2 hole base.
Either pay and return or on an exchange and fee basis.
Mine are in excellent condition.
Regards
Steve
ProtoTipo
19-12-2016, 10:59
Does anyone know of a supplier for the correct size of pins for the over centre catches?
It's just one of the longer ones that I need.
I've found this, but I have no idea what the size of the one for sale here:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Park-Tool-107S-2-Long-Clevis-Pin-W-Circlip-Washer-/361504348434?hash=item542b569912:g:PQwAAOSwxp9W2oaO
Midwest Bayliss supplied me with the right sized ones (i think they have them custom made just for them), they are brass colored i think, but might not matter to you?
Have a search on eBay for 'binding screws' or 'Chicago screws', think they are used for book binding, come in various lengths and worked for me (with a bit of modification). Rob on here and Craig at LB told me about them.
Good info. I was about to start on these myself. What diameter are they?
ProtoTipo
20-12-2016, 08:37
Have a search on eBay for 'binding screws' or 'Chicago screws', think they are used for book binding, come in various lengths and worked for me (with a bit of modification). Rob on here and Craig at LB told me about them.
Thanks for that.
ProtoTipo
20-12-2016, 08:39
Good info. I was about to start on these myself. What diameter are they?
5mm OD
For the two longer pins, 30mm is a tiny bit too short, 40mm is too long. Something like these might do:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-CHICAGO-SCREWS-6-8-10-15-20-25-30-40-50mm-BINDING-NICKEL-PLATED-SCRAPBOOK-/151668512184?var=&hash=item235025d5b8:m:m2QHWZpL7tpc36-t7uYMIGw
Can't remember what lengths I used, it is possible to shorten them as the tapped hole is deeper than the thread on the stud. Guess you could cut the pin and re-drill the hole but don't think you'll need to.
The only problem I found was when I replaced the shortest pin the top part of the catch needed springing open slightly to clear both ends of the new pin.
ProtoTipo
21-12-2016, 07:57
I'll report back, once I've got some parts.
I'll report back, once I've got some parts.
Hello Chris
Yes !!! if you could do sort of quick "tutorial " or pics with advises will be great !
Many thanks in advance !!
A good find. Are they stainless?
An alternative would be ejector pins from the injection moulding process ( as suggested by Mick for hinge pins originally), as these come in a fantastic variety of lengths and diameters.
It occurred to me that they could be secured with grab washers, but these book binding pins are probably prettier if they can be made to work.
Lancialulu
21-12-2016, 11:31
Says nickel plated.....
ProtoTipo
21-12-2016, 12:04
Plan B, could be to cut the end (along with the split pin hole) off the end of one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BARTON-Pack-of-2-316-Stainless-Steel-Clevis-Pins-39mm-x-5mm-BA60209-/262398683662?hash=item3d182e2a0e:g:afIAAOSwJSJXGNnc
which at 39mm would be over length. Then machine a groove in the lathe for the proper OE circlip.
Cutting the grove is one more job to do though.
Houuuu ?
Doing such tiny groove would be a challenge ; you need avery small leathe and very fragile cutting tool ......
Would it be easier to cut shorter and drill/tap the end ?
A hacksaw blade in the toolpost?
A hacksaw blade in the toolpost?
Yes good idea but need to be slightly grinded because an hacksaw will be thicker than necessary ; those circlips are really very thin !!!
ProtoTipo
21-12-2016, 15:14
A hacksaw blade in the toolpost?
I'm no machinist, but I'd grind a tool to the correct width, put an OE pin in the chuck and record the depth, then cut the groove to that depth on the replacement pin.
These binder pins will probably do the job though, so it won't come to the above.
Chris this is an idea for you to be sure to do the groove onto the right place ( and also to be able to hold the pin on the mandril)
Its a two part one ( but can be in one part only and cut only half lenght to press firmly the pin)
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With the tool cut you will grind you just need to "tangeant" the small face of this tool jaw ( which length have been done properly ) so you are sure to cut the groove on the right place
Hope this helps
ProtoTipo
22-12-2016, 08:37
Special tooling Michel?
If the binding pins work, I won't need to machine. We'll see?
I have found this supplier for pins with circlip grooves. The first column (5) shows a 35 overall length with a 31.7 distance to the clip groove:
http://www.thomaspotter.com/clevis-pin
Strat Fan
22-12-2016, 08:42
I have found this supplier for pins with circlip grooves. The first column (5) shows a 35 overall length with a 31.7 distance to the clip groove:
http://www.thomaspotter.com/clevis-pin
I read Thomas Popper a first glance, I must get my eye sight checked..
I read Thomas Popper a first glance, I must get my eye sight checked..
Done for me last week ... ouchhhhhhhhhhh laser and tutti quanti ............. !!! LOL :cool:
So I read the site OK lol...............and am sure the "swiss strat" man is not involved on pins production !!!!;););)
[QUOTE=ProtoTipo;33105]Special tooling Michel?
If the binding pins work, I won't need to machine. We'll see?
Chris
You can use it also to machine "binding"pins" to proper lenght........(writed proper not .......popper!!!!!!;);):D;):D)
ProtoTipo
22-12-2016, 09:14
I've asked for a price from Thomas Popper ooops, Potter.
Michel,
I'm hoping the binding pins work without modification.
I've asked for a price from Thomas Popper ooops, Potter.
Michel,
I'm hoping the binding pins work without modification.
Chris - I had been looking at this type of pin too.
Two of the originals on each latches are just like this with a groove and circlip.
I have access to a small lathe (not mine but a friends) so if an appropriate length can't be found I might be able to get some modified.
ProtoTipo
22-12-2016, 16:07
Chris - I had been looking at this type of pin too.
Two of the originals on each latches are just like this with a groove and circlip.
I have access to a small lathe (not mine but a friends) so if an appropriate length can't be found I might be able to get some modified.
We'll see what the binder pins are like first.
I don't need to replace the short crimped one, just one of the two longer (circlip) pins.
ProtoTipo
22-12-2016, 20:57
Here's an imperial one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Graco-PIN-CLEVIS-3-16-DIA-X-1-5-120295-/131570482810
'Might be a bit long, and a bit loose in the holes.
ProtoTipo
23-12-2016, 15:36
Ok, the binder pins have arrived.
See photo. I have replaced the missing long pin on the catch on the left.
Compare the original circlip pin (fitted to the catch on the right) with the binder pin and binder pin fastener/bolt.
The binder pin does the job, and it's solid metal all the way to the threaded part.
I chose 5mm x 30mm.
From this listing:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-CHICAGO-SCREWS-6-8-10-15-20-25-30-40-50mm-BINDING-NICKEL-PLATED-SCRAPBOOK-/151668512184?var=&hash=item235025d5b8:m:m2QHWZpL7tpc36-t7uYMIGw
The only worry would be it unscrewing itself. So some good quality thread lock or maybe even epoxy might be a good idea?
In the case of a used catch, after the parts have been refurbished, obviously.
Looks good. So these are for the ones with the circlips and not the central one which seems to be riveted in on my catches.
Just some decent thread lock would do the job I would have thought.
ProtoTipo
23-12-2016, 16:02
Looks good. So these are for the ones with the circlips and not the central one which seems to be riveted in on my catches.
Just some decent thread lock would do the job I would have thought.
Yes, that's right.
I don't need to replace the short one myself. The end of the short one is crimped as OE.
The overall width of the fitted OE crimped pin is 25.5mm.
The depth of the threaded (hollow) part of the binder pin that I have used is 6mm approx.
So the same pin might possibly be used for the shorter crimped pin. As long as it's possible to crimp/crush the hollow end?
Yes a very very little light "splash" of blu Thread lock and if possible replace the bolt with an button allen bolt ( could be easier to unlock compare to a screwdriver ?)
ProtoTipo
23-12-2016, 16:06
You'd need something like a brake line flaring tool to crimp the short pin.
Some sort of tooling at least? Rather than just squash it in the vice.
I have a flaring tool - good idea. I might give it a go. Nothing to loose really.
Started to do this yesterday. Dismantling and cutting the back plates down for the levers. On the first diagrams shown on the first page of this thread the extra hole position looks like you would need to grind the small post/stop from the base. It's not shown on the diagrams at all. But Andy's pictures show the hole higher up and the post is still there.
Just so I'm clear. Do I leave the post in place or grind it off?
Cheers.
ProtoTipo
28-12-2016, 11:40
Just so I'm clear. Do I leave the post in place or grind it off?
Cheers.
Grind the 'post' off.
Some people leave them on, but a genuine Stratos has them ground off.
I think it's Jeff's photo that shows them still in situ, Andy's are ground off.
ProtoTipo
28-12-2016, 11:54
Here's one on the front panel of an original Stradale:
ProtoTipo
28-12-2016, 12:01
I've just checked a few photos of production Stradale cars, and that third fixing hole is standard on both front and rear catches.
So 3 fasteners for each of the smaller targa catch parts.
Most kit replicas I've seen, only make do with the existing 2 fasteners.
I mean the posts on catch parts on the left of Andy's pics. The bases for the lever mechanism.
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On Jeff's diagram, the hole you have to add seems to be in the position of the post. On Andy's the hole is higher and the post is still there.
Interesting that the Stratos has the three holes on the other part. Might do that to mine, not sure though.
Guy Mayers
28-12-2016, 14:25
I followed the "build manual" and removed the posts on both parts and added a third hole to the catch as per the instructions and as per the originals. But I had to go look at the car to check on the posts under the levers as it was over 25 years ago since I did those....
ProtoTipo
28-12-2016, 14:34
I mean the posts on catch parts on the left of Andy's pics. The bases for the lever mechanism.
On Jeff's diagram, the hole you have to add seems to be in the position of the post. On Andy's the hole is higher and the post is still there.
Interesting that the Stratos has the three holes on the other part. Might do that to mine, not sure though.
Ah!, I see what you mean now. I think I'd do it like Andy has and leave the cone shaped 'post' as it is.
You'd have to lift that part of the catch on an original car to see how it should be. It never shows on photos. It's always covered by the spring loaded black part.
The third hole has already been discussed earlier in the thread. I think I would have the third fixing. It's original spec.
Cheers guys. What does the post do if it can be kept or removed?
ProtoTipo
28-12-2016, 19:05
Cheers guys. What does the post do if it can be kept or removed?
It limits the 'parked' position of the black part (the part that you grab to open and close the catch).
Otherwise that part would bottom out on the bodywork.
On the round arch car I had, that black part of the catch was also reduced in overall size slightly, to stop the end bottoming out on the paintwork.
I think that might just be a round arch 'thing'. 'Not required on square arch and Stradale?
Yeah, just wondered why it could be removed without it affecting stuff. I might remove mine and put the second hole in that place. If I use a cap head fastener in that hole it will recreate a stop if needed. If not I'll put a countersunk fastener in it.
I can see why the lever might catch on a round arch car, because of the profile.
Lancialulu
30-12-2016, 17:55
It limits the 'parked' position of the black part (the part that you grab to open and close the catch).
Otherwise that part would bottom out on the bodywork.
On the round arch car I had, that black part of the catch was also reduced in overall size slightly, to stop the end bottoming out on the paintwork.
I think that might just be a round arch 'thing'. 'Not required on square arch and Stradale?
On my car's round arch the catches are spaced off the body work. Not sure if this is standard but they have 3 countersunk screws, and the spacers are not that obvious...
Picked up another catch - arrived in the post today. No post. It's not been removed - it was never there!
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Lancialulu
09-01-2017, 11:50
On my car's round arch the catches are spaced off the body work. Not sure if this is standard but they have 3 countersunk screws, and the spacers are not that obvious...To confirm, the spacers are noted in the Transformer build manual.....
ProtoTipo
09-01-2017, 12:06
To confirm, the spacers are noted in the Transformer build manual.....
Yes, they're always rubber mounted.
I'm fairly sure the originals didn't have the 'post'. Here's an original:
Right! Finally finished refurbing mine.
Got some stainless pins machined up.
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Bought some stainless springs and shaped them to match the originals
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Got all the bits black powder coated
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2881/33384865256_76f3e1a466_c.jpg
Reassemble
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And the result:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2826/33426067095_de6963935b_c.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3778/33385536086_681b2c0263_c.jpg
I'll be drilling the second hole in the fixing plate when I come to fit - and will be using a cap head to act the 'post' that acts as a stop. See discussion in previous posts above about this.
Hello Leigh
Very neat refurbishing work ; congrats :rolleyes: !!!!
This is a sample of parts ( spring and pins ) that could be done in "economica" batches by the Club ......
Beside the fact those Overcenter catches are become avery rare item to find !!!!!!!:(:)
Just a small question ;
why did you coated black the alu bracket and not aslight polisch ? apart it's not "in period" LOL there is the risk of damaging quickly the coat edge on the top when you clamp them frequently ???
Dunno why I went all black - just prefer the look to be honest.
If it falls off after a while I'll redo it or maybe remove it an polish it. As they are all fitted with e-clips I can take them apart very easily.
Springs were crazy money for just 4. If I wanted to by a few hundred they would have been much, much cheaper per unit.
Pins I have made by a friend but as you say, making batches of them would be pretty cost effective. The only problem is that each catch seems to be a slightly different size. I don't think fiat were too bothered about tolerances when they have them made! I had to do a bit of filing of parts to try and get them all the the correct sizes to work with the pins.
Stratos Fear
14-03-2017, 11:01
Wow - they look the business ! I'll have to think about how I can smarten mine up . I haven't looked at them yet. I dont have the contacts to machine the pins so will be using the book binding pins (chicago screws ) recommended in one of the other threads.
What tool(s) did you use to remove the excess material, including the post?
The originals are just polished? I see the reasoning that powder coat probably would just fall off eventually. Any experience from those that did powder coat?
I just grind and then polish with sanding paper? Wet sanding?
I think I'll opt to keep the post under the handle, even if the originals didn't have them. To stop the handle from bottoming out to the glassfiber. But maybe not an issue with the thick rubber used when mounting?
Where did you source the rubber? Could it be an idea to use thin rubber and have parts 3D-printed after taking measurements on the car, to go between the rubber and the catch? So that the two parts level up correctly. It seems one needs to use different thicknesses for the two parts?
Karnevil
06-02-2021, 11:24
I was fortunate to be able to use machines at work.
https://app.photobucket.com/u/karnevilGS/a/72e9587a-bd53-4d28-9f68-a3f54c3cfaef
I cut the excess material off with a slitting disc on a hand grinder first then machined them to size on a miller.
I think I am right in saying that they are hard anodised.
My next step is to get them grit blasted and powder coated.
I am building a Lister Bell and I believe the spacers to be part of the kit.
Is it worth approaching them to see if they could sell you a set?
Thanks!
A friend of mine owns a workshop and most probably have all the machinery.
I was pondering asking him. I'll probably shave off the larger chunks and ask him to do the finer bits.
Ok, yes - I was thinking maybe they were anodized. Yours are? What level of surface finish do you need before anodizing?
Yes, maybe I could ask LB for that.
Karnevil
06-02-2021, 11:55
No idea as to the Ra or CLA.
Mine will be getting blasted and painted.
No idea as to the Ra or CLA.
Mine will be getting blasted and painted.
Ra, and CLA? You got me there.....😊
Ok, I've seen several painted. No reported scuffing?
You took down the post under the handel? The handel will still rest clear of the GRP when closed?
Stratos Fear
06-02-2021, 14:18
It depends on the thickness and angle of any spacers that you put under the bracket. I used a block of black nylon cut to size and angled to suit the body profile and this works OK - also you could rely on the bolt head to provide the necessary resting point for the lever. You need to experiment once the clips are positioned in place. Also I just trimmed my brackets with a hacksaw and then filed and sanded them down with varying grades of wet and dry. It doesnt have to be too technical - but if you have access to additional equipment and processes then go for it!
It depends on the thickness and angle of any spacers that you put under the bracket. I used a block of black nylon cut to size and angled to suit the body profile and this works OK - also you could rely on the bolt head to provide the necessary resting point for the lever. You need to experiment once the clips are positioned in place. Also I just trimmed my brackets with a hacksaw and then filed and sanded them down with varying grades of wet and dry. It doesnt have to be too technical - but if you have access to additional equipment and processes then go for it!
Thanks for the input and suggestions!
Ra, and CLA? You got me there.
I tried some different abbreviations, but couldn't find any that suited ;-)
Rheumatoid arthritis
RA
(astrophysics terminology) Right Ascension
RA
radio altitude or radar altimeter
RA
resolution advisory (in the context of TCAS)
RA
Redeemed Assassin
RA
Read Aloud
RA
Reading Ability
RA
Reading Age
RA
Reading Alarm
RA
Rejected Adventure
RA
Required Attention
Karnevil
06-02-2021, 16:34
I tried some different abbreviations, but couldn't find any that suited ;-)
Rheumatoid arthritis
RA
(astrophysics terminology) Right Ascension
RA
radio altitude or radar altimeter
RA
resolution advisory (in the context of TCAS)
RA
Redeemed Assassin
RA
Read Aloud
RA
Reading Ability
RA
Reading Age
RA
Reading Alarm
RA
Rejected Adventure
RA
Required Attention
Ra/Rx = Average roughness
CLA = Centre Line Average
Karnevil
06-02-2021, 16:38
https://www.cnccookbook.com/surface-finish-chart-symbols-measure-calculators/
Thanks! As non British, I don't have all abbreviations under the skin. But I guessed something very close to that effect. ;-)
If it's any comfort, I've been British for 65 years and I didnt have a clue what he was on about!
If it's any comfort, I've been British for 65 years and I didnt have a clue what he was on about!
Ha ha, thanks! :D
More questions. I have enough NOS hat I don't per se need to refurbish them. But, I thought it might be an advantage to dismantle them when reshaping the base.
So, in the image below - how did you remove the shorter pin? It seems to have been pressed out with a machine tool?
Just cut the end with a Dremel, and then there is no way back but to use a new pin?
catches 17628
In the image below there are my new pins, and they are flat at the end. I just use a puncher at the end to widen them after they are fitted?
https://www.stratosec.com/Forum/blob:https://www.stratosec.com/113621fc-4b84-4ca6-b5a3-201bdff99281
Finally, at the receiver part of the catches - the part indicated in the first images extends into the receiver. To my eye it seems the third hole juuuust barely might fit so that the bolt through this hole not faults the part from the other half with the handle, that pushes in here?
Don't want it too close to other end either, or I guess I'll run out of material.
Only managed to upload one image. Tried three different browsers, and both laptop and phone.
I'll add the other images later when I figure out what the problem is.
Normb666
21-02-2021, 17:52
Patriq, you don't really need that 3rd hole. The two already there will do the job just fine!
Karnevil
21-02-2021, 18:05
Patriq,you can drill off the 'burred' over end with a 6mm drill,gently drill till you see the outline of the hole that is in the black handle part.Old used ones tend to be a bit seized your NOS ones may be free to rotate,grip the head with mole grips.
I bought some 5mm stainless clevis pins.
Cut them about 2mm longer than the width of the catch part then with a small centre drill (No2)in the lathe drilled a centre hole to almost 5mm diameter.
When I assemble them up I can peen over with a 8mm ball bearing.
https://www.boneham.co.uk/clevis-pins/metric-clevis-pins-in-stainless-steel-cpssm?returnurl=%2fclevis-pins%2f
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Thanks all.
Yes, concidered drilling, but was hoping there was maybe a way of preserving them as well.
But I'll just drill them out then.
I've seen only two holes used at the receiver end on some builds. And was mostly leaning that way. As others also has pointed out, it would also seem to end up near the edge of the GRP with the third new hole. But before deciding, I was also curious as to how this third hole worked with the recess/protruding part of the section with the handle?
Still haven't been able to upload the other two images I have prepared. At the dialog box when uploading, the wheel just spins without stop. Have never had that problem before.
Guy Mayers
21-02-2021, 20:23
Third hole needs to be drilled carefully a it's easy to break through into the pin void. Trial and error to see if you need the additional securing hole to help clamp down any supporting rubber blocks? I'd recommend using a thick spreader plate on the indie of the panels to ensure a good clamp is achieved.
Guy
STR_Strat
22-02-2021, 08:21
Thanks all.
Yes, concidered drilling, but was hoping there was maybe a way of preserving them as well.
But I'll just drill them out then.
You can preserve them.
Without filing or grinding anything off, use a small parallel punch around 3mm diameter and knock them back through. The swage will give way, just make sure you support the opposite side so that the side doesn't bend. When you reassemble use a ball bearing 6mm diameter to re-swage the end. It doesn't need much, when the catch is closed it can't slide out anyway.
Dave
You can preserve them.
Without filing or grinding anything off, use a small parallel punch around 3mm diameter and knock them back through. The swage will give way, just make sure you support the opposite side so that the side doesn't bend. When you reassemble use a ball bearing 6mm diameter to re-swage the end. It doesn't need much, when the catch is closed it can't slide out anyway.
Dave
Ah, thanks Dave!
Iowstratos
22-02-2021, 18:34
As Guy has said about the backing plate, if you are able to drill and tap it you won’t need nuts on the inside that catch the inner arch seal.
Ian
As Guy has said about the backing plate, if you are able to drill and tap it you won’t need nuts on the inside that catch the inner arch seal.
Ian
Thanks Ian!
Yes, figured that was a good idea. So I will do that regardless. :)
Yeah, I used a 1/8 punch, the swage/flare just folded up and the pin fell out. I used a tapered centre punch to re-flare it when I put it back in. Still ok a few years later.
Do I flatten the backside? Ie, remove the curved part in the enclosed picture?
No, leave it the way it is.
No, leave it the way it is.
Ok, thx for that!
Stratos Fear
30-03-2021, 09:37
You'll probably have to use a black nylon block as a spacer to get the catch angled correctly so the curve can stay - as Paul (Fingers) has indicated.
You'll probably have to use a black nylon block as a spacer to get the catch angled correctly so the curve can stay - as Paul (Fingers) has indicated.
Ok. So I thought the curve had a purpose?
But, if not - is there a reason not to remove it?
Karnevil
30-03-2021, 10:58
Ok. So I thought the curve had a purpose?
But, if not - is there a reason not to remove it?
it's too close to the cavities.
Ok. The curve, is too close to the cavities?
And what cavities? On the reciever I'm modifying?
I don't understand. There seems to be enough material to remove from. And only benefits from having the underside flat, when/if mounting it to the GRP. Unless you wanted to "hook" it to something. Or it fitted into a spesific slot.
Guy Mayers
30-03-2021, 12:29
If you remove the bottom part of the curve you'll possibly intrude (or weaken) the female part of the receiver that the male part on the over centre catch needs to ensure proper alignment. If you do flatten it then there's a chance the misalignment might not get spotted if it's closed by someone else and the consequence of that might be interference between the door/front clip and loss of paint?
Given that you need a block between the receiver part and the body the simplest solution is to shape the block to match the profile of the receiver/body panel. Most people use rubber but if you've got suitable nylon material that would work too but, being less flexible, may cause stress to the fibreglass panel? Stress=cracks at some point. I'd stick with rubber.
Guy
Ah, I see that now. I didn't think of the fact that this part needs to sit on some nylon/rubber higher than for the other part which the handle is coupled to. Should be able to round off the corner of that nylon/rubber piece?
Guy Mayers
30-03-2021, 13:19
Glad it's sorted/understood now Patriq! The underside profile is a little odd with a distinct step in too. All easy enough to carve so long as you think about which section you need to remove and what to reshape.
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