Not bright enough to work out how to start a new thread (apologies) but foolishly excited by new shiny bits...Attachment 7252
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Not bright enough to work out how to start a new thread (apologies) but foolishly excited by new shiny bits...Attachment 7252
Engine in the Hawk (sort of)Attachment 7257
Hawk's panels are amazing and virtually 100% faithful to the originals but the one point of departure - and this is a personal opinion - is the lower 3/4 on the Stradale. Accordingly we chose to modify the sill.Attachment 7258
That required some changes to the floor...Attachment 7259
And in turn the rear panel.Attachment 7260
Attachment 7261Hopefully giving a more 'sprightly' stance (am keen on the spoilerless attitude)
Front profile took some work - matched to original.Attachment 7262
Coming on well Matt. Agree about the sills.
Are you going to have to go through IVA ?
Looking good Matt...........some nice work completed so far.
Thanks guys - we've already gone through IVF with donor Beta engine :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sando
Looking really good! Cutting the sill line back is one big undertaking! I also like the mods in the footwell which should look great once skinned. Have you done anything with the roof cage to take it closer to the pillars and around the perimeter of the screen? Are you going to replace Gerry's front louvre panels with the right shaped ones too?
Guy
Magnificent, if only cockpit could be in steel ... :)
Struan
Yes, lots of work - modified the roof cage to the extent possible and sourced a set of louvres from Italy. Also reworked the front compartment to use the original pedal box/unservo-ed brake system/radiator/steering rack and to accommodate a spare wheel (and aircon as a concession to usability ). The main spine of the car had to be off set to original dimensions to allow the gear linkage to meet the gearbox in the right place (so wider LHS I think) and have altered rear suspension geometry to accommodate original struts, brakes etc. BTW, I've got an original set of Stradale wheels that I would like to use but a bit scarred about mag fatigue - does anyone know anything about this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Mayers
Hi Matt,
Were you not tempted by the "original/repro" chassis that was sold at auction recently?
With the combination of that tub, the Ferrari engine & the quantity of correct parts that you already have then you would have been very close to creating the ultimate replica which would have been virtually indistinguishable from the real thing for a fraction of the price.
I read somewhere that the dark blue McGann car with the Giro nose was made from one of the Gartrac tubs & therefore wasn't "real", guess who was behind the claim.
No - I started building a standard Hawk (if there is such a thing) and just got a bit obsessive, but I guess I'm not alone in that :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strat Fan
Sadly that's how it starts .... :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by maxlouis
Struan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strat Fan
Is this the same guy selling parts?
http://www.hemmings.com/parts/item/B...odyw/5796.html
If your wheels are really original ones ; they have been treated with aspecial treatment nemed "chromate" and then painted in gold so years damage corrosion have not done that bad work you can find on racing magnesium wheels getting only a miror polish after machining casting when they where brand newQuote:
Originally Posted by maxlouis
This one the good good point ; in an other hand concerning load on the magnesium , considering they are stradale stuff they probably did not suffer much but who never know !
There are 2 sort of inspection; one is cheap and you can do it on your own but it is mandatory to have those wheel sand blasted ( not with sand but "nuts chips" and it's the same effect ) to take off painting and then apply a red product ( it's a spraycan) live it for 10mn , clean and then spray the second white product ; if some red lines comes you can just have those wheel as seat of memorabilia
If everything is ok you will need to paint them again and if you now some body able to do some Alodine treatment before it will be much better
Second test is With X rays or better IRM tecnology but no many company do this and the process is cost less for a privater
Hope this helps
That's very helpful - thank you! I would like to use them as they look really good so will follow your advice and also get a set of Ronin coffin spokes; anyone bought a set here?Quote:
Originally Posted by LM mic
Be very careful with any alodine, it's chromic acid and is quite toxic. Safety glasses and latex gloves at the bare minimum, and any rags or material that comes into contact should be flushed with water immediatly, it has a tendency to ignite as it dries out. It's really good stuff but just needs to be treated with respect. It also helps paint stick to aluminium. I won't paint ally without using it. Selenious acid works best for spot touch ups on magnesium, a proper chromate bath is even better if you can find one.
To be honest I have used Alodine for ages and never had any issues with ; you are talking about Acid ? Alodine never was eating any part of material I plunged into ? I bought Alodine in small plastic bottlle to mix to warm medium water and this was send by the supplier by post ? So am wondering really if it was so dangerous you are describing ( it's complety different than nitric acid for example !! yes this one is really dangerous )
I was using Alodine to make any aluminium part I built a sort of yellow gold color ( before painting) and just using glove not to have thingers yellow too !! and had some days some on hand but really never feel any attack ?
But you probably know more ; so it's better to follow your precautionous advise ..... I will do next time now for sure
Interesting you are speaking of Chromate bath ; is this one that makes parts black ? Will be very interested to know more about this ( Can a private people use it easily ?)
I recently sourced Magnesium set of wheel from Marvic ; they are ( Just to me!) more accurate than Ronin ones and done properly as original ones where done and just forQuote:
Originally Posted by maxlouis
You to know ; they are also able to supply with reasonable price the original Stratos upright
Attachment 7270
Attachment 7273
I'd contacted marvic about their uprights but at 2.5k a pair, they were a bit too much money. Similar items were available elsewhere and have been for a few years but I was advised against them due to issues with cracking of the castings. By the time you factor in the stratos bearing and hub, they get pricey so I've gone down the route of a more modern machined from billet version, similar geometry to the original stratos but with a 5 x 108 pcd cartridge style bearing kindly supplied by listerbell. Radial mount ap 6720 calipers, wheel speed sensors and a few other features. With some careful design, wheels from marvic, roin, listerbell and hawk can all fit under a group 4 arch.
What diameter are the struts that fit in the marvic upright?
These are my wheels, refinished by Ian Jemison http://www.ianjemison.co.uk who repair and refinish magnesium wheels, but I didn't think to ask him to X-ray etc - anyway I'll use them but not 'in anger'. Those uprights look quite different to my Stradale ones (below) - they must be for competition are they?
Attachment 7281Attachment 7282Attachment 7283[QUOTEtt=LM mic;22772]I recently sourced Magnesium set of wheel from Marvic ; they are ( Just to me!) more accurate than Ronin ones and done properly as original ones where done and just for
You to know ; they are also able to supply with reasonable price the original Stratos upright
Attachment 7270
Attachment 7273[/QUOTE]
Any cracking in magnesium is usually easy to see visually due to the coarse grain structure, the same with cast alumimium. The dye checking method Michel mentioned is probably the easiest method for crack detection, but won't work if the material has been media blasted (depending on the type of media) as it moves material and can close over the cracks. Dye checking requires the item to be very clean an also paint stripped. It's easy to miss cracks when x-raying thicker material, but doesn't require paint stripping, it's time consuming and expensive. Eddy current inspection is my favourite, it's quick, easy, doesn't require paint stripping and is very sensitive, you can use different fequencies to look for cracking at different levels in the material, high freq for surface, low freq for sub surface. It requires a refence standard made of the same material as you're going to inspect with a sample crack to calibrate the machine but any NDT firm would have dosens of these. If you lived close I'd do the eddy current on them for you.
There will be NDT firms around that would do it for you if you're concerned, it's not usually cheap though. I'm lucky, I walk down to the end of our hangar and do it myself, I was in our NDT dept for three years and they still let me use the equipment. The thermal infrared is a cool toy to play with!
Alodine/Alochrome are brand names, the conversion coating is chromic acid, diluted of course, not too harmful on metal, not very friendly for your body. If you can get an alodine touch-n-prep pen use that, they're great, just apply and wait for it to dry, no need to flush the area.
Thanks Paul; I will investigate the Eddy route as they have already been refinished and am not sure there will be much left of them if I repeat the process!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fingers
Attachment 7303Attachment 7304Attachment 7305
Various suspension bits progressing...
Attachment 7306Attachment 7307Attachment 7308Attachment 7309
Trying to find space for three whales in a mini... - aircon (fake heater box is now air con unit), battery and spare - v rough at moment but hopefully it will work!
Making some progress but with a slightly different approach: all steel floor and front section (photos are a Attachment 8967bit rubbish- apologies)
Attachment 8969and rear section altered to accommodate original uprights, and A pillars changed in steel which was a challenge but hopefully the view out will be worth it. Attachment 8968
Nice progress !!!
Thank! Slow but at least we're getting there and it should speed up when the tub is complete which it almost is...
Nice progress and a great build!
Really an amazing car with stradale wheels and Dino engine!!
Is it a 2.4 or 2.0 L ?... from Fiat Dino or maybe Ferrari one?!
Frederic
Thanks - engine and gearbox are from a 246GT so 2,418cc but with a Stratos inlet manifold and matching carbs (40IDFs) in place of the usual 40DCNF Webers. And, air conditioning (I'm old...) which remains a controversial challenge (you can see the compressor sticking out the bottom held in place by a weird tripod bracket).
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxlouis
That's really an incredible challenge to build a car like yours... With a lot of original parts from real car and a Ferrari Dino engine ... And air conditionning! Almost a real Stradale with modern improvements!!
Congrats
A Stratos replica should have a Dino engine, otherwise it's just a kit car....:rolleyes:
Next best Ferrari 308, shares loads of components.
Alfa V6 may be a better engine, but nothing like a Stratos.....
Struan
We’ve still got a way to go but the plan remains to try to build a car that looks and feels as close to the original as practicable but functions as a useable and attractive everyday road car – so it has to be reliable, serviceable, better insulated so as not to be oppressive - and the ventilation has to work (and that’s obviously about getting air ‘out’ as well as ‘in’ so we’ve tried to prioritise that) as well as thinking about where the weight and rigidity should be to make it a bit friendlier – which is why we went steel for the floor etc. Not sure yet whether we’ll achieve that, but that’s the plan!
Attachment 9018
I bought these louvers from Italy (and I know they're on upside down!) and they were supposed be correct but the gaps between the end of the slots are too wide and the the shape of the vent is too curved, rather than being more pointed like the originals. That will always annoy me! Anyone got any ideas as to where/how I can get a better set made - or possibly modify these ones as they are well made and the correct dimensions - but aesthetically don't cut it. Many thanks,
'I can get a better set made - or possibly modify these ones as they are well made and the correct dimensions '
Matt, give Marfab Welding a call 07903 460691, bloke is called Mark Milne, big Lancia fan, belongs to the Lancia owners club, and has done quite a bit of alloy fabrication on both mine and Rene's Hawks, including the under tray pictured, hope this helps Griff