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Yes, that's right.Quote:
Originally Posted by LPH_UK
I don't need to replace the short one myself. The end of the short one is crimped as OE.
The overall width of the fitted OE crimped pin is 25.5mm.
The depth of the threaded (hollow) part of the binder pin that I have used is 6mm approx.
So the same pin might possibly be used for the shorter crimped pin. As long as it's possible to crimp/crush the hollow end?
Yes a very very little light "splash" of blu Thread lock and if possible replace the bolt with an button allen bolt ( could be easier to unlock compare to a screwdriver ?)
You'd need something like a brake line flaring tool to crimp the short pin.
Some sort of tooling at least? Rather than just squash it in the vice.
I have a flaring tool - good idea. I might give it a go. Nothing to loose really.
Started to do this yesterday. Dismantling and cutting the back plates down for the levers. On the first diagrams shown on the first page of this thread the extra hole position looks like you would need to grind the small post/stop from the base. It's not shown on the diagrams at all. But Andy's pictures show the hole higher up and the post is still there.
Just so I'm clear. Do I leave the post in place or grind it off?
Cheers.
Grind the 'post' off.Quote:
Originally Posted by LPH_UK
Some people leave them on, but a genuine Stratos has them ground off.
I think it's Jeff's photo that shows them still in situ, Andy's are ground off.
Here's one on the front panel of an original Stradale:
I've just checked a few photos of production Stradale cars, and that third fixing hole is standard on both front and rear catches.
So 3 fasteners for each of the smaller targa catch parts.
Most kit replicas I've seen, only make do with the existing 2 fasteners.
I mean the posts on catch parts on the left of Andy's pics. The bases for the lever mechanism.
Attachment 10713
On Jeff's diagram, the hole you have to add seems to be in the position of the post. On Andy's the hole is higher and the post is still there.
Interesting that the Stratos has the three holes on the other part. Might do that to mine, not sure though.
I followed the "build manual" and removed the posts on both parts and added a third hole to the catch as per the instructions and as per the originals. But I had to go look at the car to check on the posts under the levers as it was over 25 years ago since I did those....
Ah!, I see what you mean now. I think I'd do it like Andy has and leave the cone shaped 'post' as it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by LPH_UK
You'd have to lift that part of the catch on an original car to see how it should be. It never shows on photos. It's always covered by the spring loaded black part.
The third hole has already been discussed earlier in the thread. I think I would have the third fixing. It's original spec.
Cheers guys. What does the post do if it can be kept or removed?
It limits the 'parked' position of the black part (the part that you grab to open and close the catch).Quote:
Originally Posted by LPH_UK
Otherwise that part would bottom out on the bodywork.
On the round arch car I had, that black part of the catch was also reduced in overall size slightly, to stop the end bottoming out on the paintwork.
I think that might just be a round arch 'thing'. 'Not required on square arch and Stradale?
Yeah, just wondered why it could be removed without it affecting stuff. I might remove mine and put the second hole in that place. If I use a cap head fastener in that hole it will recreate a stop if needed. If not I'll put a countersunk fastener in it.
I can see why the lever might catch on a round arch car, because of the profile.
On my car's round arch the catches are spaced off the body work. Not sure if this is standard but they have 3 countersunk screws, and the spacers are not that obvious...Quote:
Originally Posted by ProtoTipo
Picked up another catch - arrived in the post today. No post. It's not been removed - it was never there!
Attachment 10749
To confirm, the spacers are noted in the Transformer build manual.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancialulu
Yes, they're always rubber mounted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancialulu
I'm fairly sure the originals didn't have the 'post'. Here's an original:
Right! Finally finished refurbing mine.
Got some stainless pins machined up.
Attachment 11003
Bought some stainless springs and shaped them to match the originals
Attachment 11004
Attachment 11005
Got all the bits black powder coated
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2881/3...f3e1a466_c.jpg
Reassemble
Attachment 11006
And the result:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2826/3...6963935b_c.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3778/3...1b2c0263_c.jpg
I'll be drilling the second hole in the fixing plate when I come to fit - and will be using a cap head to act the 'post' that acts as a stop. See discussion in previous posts above about this.
Hello Leigh
Very neat refurbishing work ; congrats :rolleyes: !!!!
This is a sample of parts ( spring and pins ) that could be done in "economica" batches by the Club ......
Beside the fact those Overcenter catches are become avery rare item to find !!!!!!!:(:)
Just a small question ;
why did you coated black the alu bracket and not aslight polisch ? apart it's not "in period" LOL there is the risk of damaging quickly the coat edge on the top when you clamp them frequently ???
Dunno why I went all black - just prefer the look to be honest.
If it falls off after a while I'll redo it or maybe remove it an polish it. As they are all fitted with e-clips I can take them apart very easily.
Springs were crazy money for just 4. If I wanted to by a few hundred they would have been much, much cheaper per unit.
Pins I have made by a friend but as you say, making batches of them would be pretty cost effective. The only problem is that each catch seems to be a slightly different size. I don't think fiat were too bothered about tolerances when they have them made! I had to do a bit of filing of parts to try and get them all the the correct sizes to work with the pins.
:p:o:):):cool:
Wow - they look the business ! I'll have to think about how I can smarten mine up . I haven't looked at them yet. I dont have the contacts to machine the pins so will be using the book binding pins (chicago screws ) recommended in one of the other threads.
What tool(s) did you use to remove the excess material, including the post?
The originals are just polished? I see the reasoning that powder coat probably would just fall off eventually. Any experience from those that did powder coat?
I just grind and then polish with sanding paper? Wet sanding?
I think I'll opt to keep the post under the handle, even if the originals didn't have them. To stop the handle from bottoming out to the glassfiber. But maybe not an issue with the thick rubber used when mounting?
Where did you source the rubber? Could it be an idea to use thin rubber and have parts 3D-printed after taking measurements on the car, to go between the rubber and the catch? So that the two parts level up correctly. It seems one needs to use different thicknesses for the two parts?
I was fortunate to be able to use machines at work.
https://app.photobucket.com/u/karnev...8-a3f54c3cfaef
I cut the excess material off with a slitting disc on a hand grinder first then machined them to size on a miller.
I think I am right in saying that they are hard anodised.
My next step is to get them grit blasted and powder coated.
I am building a Lister Bell and I believe the spacers to be part of the kit.
Is it worth approaching them to see if they could sell you a set?
Thanks!
A friend of mine owns a workshop and most probably have all the machinery.
I was pondering asking him. I'll probably shave off the larger chunks and ask him to do the finer bits.
Ok, yes - I was thinking maybe they were anodized. Yours are? What level of surface finish do you need before anodizing?
Yes, maybe I could ask LB for that.
No idea as to the Ra or CLA.
Mine will be getting blasted and painted.
Ra, and CLA? You got me there.....😊Quote:
Originally Posted by Karnevil
Ok, I've seen several painted. No reported scuffing?
You took down the post under the handel? The handel will still rest clear of the GRP when closed?
It depends on the thickness and angle of any spacers that you put under the bracket. I used a block of black nylon cut to size and angled to suit the body profile and this works OK - also you could rely on the bolt head to provide the necessary resting point for the lever. You need to experiment once the clips are positioned in place. Also I just trimmed my brackets with a hacksaw and then filed and sanded them down with varying grades of wet and dry. It doesnt have to be too technical - but if you have access to additional equipment and processes then go for it!
Thanks for the input and suggestions!Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratos Fear
I tried some different abbreviations, but couldn't find any that suited ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriq
Rheumatoid arthritis RA (astrophysics terminology) Right Ascension RA radio altitude or radar altimeter RA resolution advisory (in the context of TCAS) RA Redeemed Assassin RA Read Aloud RA Reading Ability RA Reading Age RA Reading Alarm RA Rejected Adventure RA Required Attention
Ra/Rx = Average roughnessQuote:
Originally Posted by Patriq
CLA = Centre Line Average
Thanks! As non British, I don't have all abbreviations under the skin. But I guessed something very close to that effect. ;-)
If it's any comfort, I've been British for 65 years and I didnt have a clue what he was on about!
Ha ha, thanks! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by john
More questions. I have enough NOS hat I don't per se need to refurbish them. But, I thought it might be an advantage to dismantle them when reshaping the base.
So, in the image below - how did you remove the shorter pin? It seems to have been pressed out with a machine tool?
Just cut the end with a Dremel, and then there is no way back but to use a new pin?
catches Attachment 17628
In the image below there are my new pins, and they are flat at the end. I just use a puncher at the end to widen them after they are fitted?
https://www.stratosec.com/Forum/blob...3-201bdff99281
Finally, at the receiver part of the catches - the part indicated in the first images extends into the receiver. To my eye it seems the third hole juuuust barely might fit so that the bolt through this hole not faults the part from the other half with the handle, that pushes in here?
Don't want it too close to other end either, or I guess I'll run out of material.
Only managed to upload one image. Tried three different browsers, and both laptop and phone.
I'll add the other images later when I figure out what the problem is.
Patriq, you don't really need that 3rd hole. The two already there will do the job just fine!
Patriq,you can drill off the 'burred' over end with a 6mm drill,gently drill till you see the outline of the hole that is in the black handle part.Old used ones tend to be a bit seized your NOS ones may be free to rotate,grip the head with mole grips.
I bought some 5mm stainless clevis pins.
Cut them about 2mm longer than the width of the catch part then with a small centre drill (No2)in the lathe drilled a centre hole to almost 5mm diameter.
When I assemble them up I can peen over with a 8mm ball bearing.
https://www.boneham.co.uk/clevis-pin...clevis-pins%2f
Attachment 17629
Attachment 17630
Attachment 17631