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A dash 10 balance pipe across the bottom with a dash 6 vent pipe at the top should be absolutely fine for levelling the fuel side to side, a dash 12 at the bottom maximum.
There shouldn't be any issue with fuel starvation when running with a swirl pot in the system.
Chris,
With 2 LP pumps feeding the swirl pot I assume you have an adequate return back to the main tanks to avoid any issues at the swirl pot itself?
Does your regulator return feed back to the swirl pot or back to the main tanks?
Returns back to the main tanks Craig.Quote:
Originally Posted by Strat Fan
Balance pipe - my Hawk tanks came with an outlet on the bottom that was the same diameter as the breather pipes in the top of the tank. I resulted in a very embarrassing situation at the MOT station where the fuel was returned to one tank but because the pick up was off a T in the balance pipe it wouldn't flow back to refill one side. Soon resulted in an overflow. oops.
All history now but the balance pipe was replaced with a 15mm OD pipe and, with the Alfa 164 pump in the tank and the return line to the bottom of the swirl poy I've had no fuelling issues since. Ignoring braided line failure due to rotted rubber that you can't see.......
Chris, glad to hear that the photographed installation wasn't the final one. That gave me a sleepless night I think!
Guy
There is a lot of great information here, thanks for everyone's input, it gives me more confidence setting up the inductions.
Thanks,
Corky
Hi All , just a quick question on this as i will be going down the same route late with my car. Do you need to fit an aftermarket fuel pump as per the diagrams or would the standard 166 pump be sufficient for a mildly tuned (280bhp ish) throttle bodied engine?
I have a Bosch 044 fitted to my Noble and its a horribly noisy thing always buzzing away, so would prefer to not have one of those right behind me if possible!
This is a subject which has been discussed before. I believe the basic wisdom is that there's absolutely nothing wrong with the standard pump and it's free! It should also simplify a range of other elements in the engine bay so worth going with unless you have specific objectives that it cannot achieve.
I was wondering, where do you pull a vacuum for the pressure gauge. Normally it would come from the intake, but I don't see anywhere on these throttle bodies to attach a vacuum line.
Don't think jenvey users have any vac lines connected. My 6 bodies have ports which are connected to a remote vessel, this has take offs for a pressure regulator, brake booster/servo if needed and the idle valve.
Not quite sure about vacuum for a pressure gauge?Quote:
Originally Posted by tipo158
But I drilled and tapped just one inlet runner for the servo (booster) take off. Works just Fine. No issues at all, ( it was always common practice for multi carb set ups back in the day too) it does run through a standard non return valve, but you would be using that wth any servo take off.
If you needed vacuum for anything else, I'm sure it would work just as well, however you would most likely see the pulses on a guage unless you dampened it out. (A piece of threaded rod in the hose may do the trick...Early Turbo boost fooling trick to bleed pressure or vacuum slowly)
Rob
All bike throttle bodies have vac Lines from each body that are all the same length. All run to a common connection then on in a single line to the fuel pressure regulator. Been as bikes are by far the biggest users of throttle bodies, I figured they'd have done the most r&d so followed that lead.