Printable View
Hummmm !! Phil ... in doing that you will never check
1/ if all old oil will come out
2/ if there are "small debris stuck on the magnet plug
Taking off the plug and inserting anew cooper seal is (to me :o) the smart opération !
That said ; you will change probably mutch more things before doing the 5000 miles run oil ?????????????????????????? LOL
Otherwise ; good progress done !!!! congrats :)
hi Michel.... Did think of your comments whilst on the job....I think I can just undo 2 x engine mount nuts and compress shocker and jack engine up within 10 mins so not a major issue.... But as you say I usually change the oil every year anyway so it shouldn't be too bad..Quote:
Originally Posted by LM mic
:o:cool::)
Well after a few niggles completely of my own making....with a great deal of help from Craig over at Lister Bell..... Advice from Chris Savage...Nellie is ready for the road again with her phase 3 engine....still a few little issues to sort out but nothing that will prevent her running.....today is a GOOD DAY !......a Really Good day !
cheers
Phil
That's goon news Phill��
Does that bring the Zagato anywhere near being started Phil?
Guy
Yes Guy......from 2050 to 2049 !!...lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Guy Mayers
So to summarise...
Alfa 3.0 V6 Engine swop from 12V 5 speed (164) to 24V Phase 3 - 6 speed (166) in a Hawk.
This is by no means a comprehensive list but it will give you a flavour of what is required, so in no particular order…
Fabricate new gearbox mount.
I used ListerBell cable gear linkage and gear lever mount – fitted Alfa gearstick.
Fit accelerator potentiometer.
Revamp Exhaust system.
Alter engine steady bar.
Alter water system as the thermostat is at opposite ends of the engine.
Splice ecu into Hawk loom – Craig at ListerBell did a great job on mine.
Re orientate the clutch slave cylinder with a 156 mounting bracket, this will also require a longer push rod approx. 95mm long. (this actually made me think that the master cylinder was not pushing enough fluid but in actual fact the slave cylinder did not have enough travel due to its slightly different orientation to the clutch lever, hence the longer push rod. I fitted a 7/8” master cylinder but after my holidays I may revert back to ¾”).
Fuel system re routed.
Find a suitable position for the alternator (mine is bulkhead side) fabricate new bracket, tensioner system and find suitable multi vee belt.
Advised for replacement … the items below where new.
Cam belt
Plugs
Oil and Filter
Air Filter
Gear oil
Clutch centre plate and pressure plate – FWIW… I stayed with the DMF
Clutch slave cylinder
Clutch release bearing
Dot 4 hydraulic clutch pipe
Fuel Pipes and connectors
Engine / Gearbox mounts
Check water pump impeller.
Note to self…. Anything that that you touch / remove / alter, use this as a starting point to find your problems !
Also if things do go wrong take time out with a cup of tea and have a think !..... Oh and a biscuit or 2.
Should anyone wish to see it in the flesh then please let me know.
Cheers
Phil
Hello Phil
Will be very please to have look of what you did !!
Should have these following weeks may be some evening free for a pizza and a visit as am actually on the Ferry and back again to Newark ( for at least 11/2 months or so !!!!!!:rolleyes:)
I'll pop round for a look, once my Ecu is back....Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernard