Mine's a ListerBell, but here's where I put mine.
Attachment 12766
Not that I'm a pessimist or anything, but I also put the decals onto the bulkhead underneath the bonnet (in case the bonnet is
not there when you want to know what's what!).
Mark
Printable View
Mine's a ListerBell, but here's where I put mine.
Attachment 12766
Not that I'm a pessimist or anything, but I also put the decals onto the bulkhead underneath the bonnet (in case the bonnet is
not there when you want to know what's what!).
Mark
When I converted to LHD a couple of years back I moved the wiper to the other side of the scuttle plinth. That left a gaping hole from the original spindle position so I used that for the plumber in extinguisher button. I guess you could put a mechanical system pul handle there too?
Guy
Here is mine! :)
Well I have now installed a Lifeline 360 3kg fire extinguisher. I selected this system as the kit includes everything you need and uses Novec™1230 suppressant.
The push fit pipework is really easy to use although I did buy some additional 90 degree elbows to make the pipe runs as neat as possible.
I fitted the cockpit nozzles into the footwell on the heater air distribution box. Two of the engine bay nozzles are located either side of the engine with one of these pointing at the exhaust system. The third engine bay nozzle is aimed at the carburettors. The fuel tanks get plenty of coverage.
Whilst installing this system I took the opportunity to redesign the centre console and improve the gear change mount points. The gear change is much improved.
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Paul will you bring to the Bell today for a nose!
Tim
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Eustace
Below are some photographs of my recent work to fit an OBP accelerator pedal, finally install the remote brake balance bar control and fit a partial restrictor into the Laminova oil/coolant heat exchanger.
The oil temperature would rise to 90-95C when using the power. The coolant temperature always remains constant at 75-80C so I surmised that the Laminova needed more coolant passing through it's capillaries.
Having driven a couple of hundred miles since fitting the partial restrictor I can confirm the oil temperature never exceeds 85C and usually runs around 80C.
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With a little time on my hands I decided to sort out a few issues. Front clam poor fitment, mud flaps to big and ugly, car is too high and the rear dampers are shot. The car has been on the road for 5 years so it is about time for action.
I modified the front clam mounts and removed the spacers I had fitted between the chassis and the front clam. I am very pleased that I managed level the front of the clam and move it right to get a reasonably good fit.
I cut down the mud flaps as they had remained in their, 'miles to big', original state which ensured I passed the IVA inspection.
Sent the rear Leda dampers off to Leda for testing and servicing. I received a very impressive report and Leda is working on returning them with modern internals. I have also bought shorter springs to enable me to attain the correct ride height.
I have bought a pair of 15" Protech Shocks for the front, again with shorter springs to enable me to get the front ride height down. I am awaiting delivery of some bushes from a local machine shop as I need to raise the damper mount on the track control arms. The modern alloy shocks require more point clearance than my existing antique steel dampers.
I also checked camber, castor and bump steer, just for fun.
I am hoping the FORC Snetterton track evening goes ahead at the end of June as I would like to take part. I entered the FORC Snetterton 100 Sprint last year and I want to get the suspension sorted before this years run.
I should say 'Thanks', to Craig White for his help in determining the correct damper and spring specifications.
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All looking very impressive Paul !
Paul, how did you adjust the front clam point, been looking at mine all weekend, tried adding and removing shims, moving pivot point etc, but is doesn't want to move towards the passenger side at all
Considering just extending the bonnet edge out to compensate
Attachment 16328
Hi,
I needed my front clam to move right. I removed all the shims, washers, spacers. Then, with the LHS bolt just in it's nut far enough to engage the nyloc I simply wound the RHS bolt in until the clam lined up. Next I tightened the LHS bolt just enough to take up all the slack. You don't really need the spacers as each bolt prevents the clam moving left or right. One day I will probably get around the fitting them again but every time I remove the front clam they are a real pain.
I repositioning the front damper mounts on the track control arms by welding bushes a few mm's higher than the original mount points. I had to do this as I replaced the original steel dampers with Protech alloy 400 series dampers. The alloy damper mounts require more clearance. The Protech dampers are 1.5" shorter than the original dampers. I had far too much droop and needed shorter springs to enable me to achieve a lower ride height.
Attachment 16341
Thanks Paul, think yours is different to mine, or mine is wrong, I attached a drawing of the setup, but the bolt that goes through the frame goes into the threaded both sides bolt then the clam, then a washer then the large nutQuote:
Originally Posted by Paul Eustace
But the bolt is not threaded in the frame so tightening it or loosening it just moves the bolt in and out, doesn't affect the position of the part that goes through the clam, any ideas
Attachment 16377
I think the idea of the big ( M20?) bolt and large diameter washers was to allow some adjustment of its position in the fibreglass. You drilled the fibreglass oversize, assembled the M20 bolt, washers and nut, then adjusted the position of body against the pivot point in the frame before clamping them up tight.
On Frederics car I just used the bolt through the frame as a pivot point and didnt fit a nut. I drilled it through and put an R clip through the bolt shank on the inside of the chassis pivot tube to stop it sliding out. To remove the front end then you just pulled the R clips, slid the bolts out and lifted away.
I dont recall a lot if effort to get it all lined up but maybe I was just lucky. I had done a fair bit of re-shaping on the front clam so probably got rid of mis-fit there.
If you have enough thread on the M20 bolts you could add washers behind the bolt head to align the clam laterally, then use the pivot bolts as I did.
About right, the clam is over drilled and I have movement up/down etc, but it is not moving the clam around to the left so the rear left tip of the front clam is too far forward from the door aperature
Think i will get the fiberglass out and re-profile the trailing edge of the clam to make it look right
I think that was more or less standard practice on Corse bodywork, Steve.
Probably a lot less trouble in the end.
My clam has about 12-15mm of clearance, each side, between the 'Clam' and 'Frame' in your sketch. I have simply tightened one bolt until there is 1mm of clearance on one side, this moved the clam 11-14mm to the right in my case. This was all I needed to centre the clam on the windscreen.
Looking at your drawing I would have thought you could do the same?
If the tube welded to the chassis, is the only thing preventing the clam moving sideways, I would consider grinding this in preference to playing with fibreglass.....
I have now completed renewing my suspension setup. I have fitted new Protech front dampers and my refurbished Leda rear struts. With shorter springs I now have been able to set the correct ride heights after driving around an elevated car for the past few years. Thanks to Craig for helping me to make the correct spring choices.
You might be amused to see my rigid rear dampers....Attachment 16392Attachment 16393Attachment 16394Attachment 16395Attachment 16396
You might be interested in listening to my lovely Guy Croft tuned Lancia 8V engine on my first ever track day, well evening.
https://youtu.be/dfroXQxIuFc
Sounds great - and that looked like a lot of fun !
What size is the engine? 2l?
Sounds very similar to my 200hp k-series rover (on ITBs) that I had in the Lotus 340R. Lovely noise.
Yes, it is a 2.0 litre. It is from a 1978 Lancia Beta. Twin DCOE 45's is what makes the sound special. It makes around 175-180bhp.
Time to update Avatar???Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Eustace
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strat Fan
Corse I
I got some front damper mount plates made to drop the top mount by 1" as the front trailing arm was only about 1/4" from the chassis rail and on bump was hitting it. If I jacked the spring collars then I had no droop. Now I have about 2" bumps and 1'1/2" droop and it feels good.
I have just had it set on one of those new fangled laser jigs.
I have got all the settings pretty close to those in the Corse I build manual, however:-
I started with caster FL 2"35' FR 3"31'
To increase these towards the Corse I suggestion of 3"-5" the trailing arms had to be wound out to lengthen them and now both L&R are 4"30' BUT the lower rear wishbone arms are now very much to the rear of the little tunnel they sit in just in front of the bulkhead.
Lengthening the trailing arms to increase caster does not tie up with what Craig says above when he says "wind it in", which implies shortening the trailing arm.
Am I doing something wrong?
Am I missing something?
Extending the front trailing links reduces the castor unless your upright was already leaning forwards (negative castor) rather than backwards (positive castor).Quote:
Originally Posted by hollytree
From what you describe then it sounds like your Track Control Arm is leaning back too far and that the top ball joint is actually farther forwards than the lower ball joint?
The image below was pulled from the www for the image but some of the text is relevant as well, just disregard the bit about power steering.
Attachment 22241
Craig
Thanks
That is what is "visually" looks like, but how can that happen?
There is no adjustment in the top ball joint position.
If I had to lengthen the trailing arm to increase caster, should the machine be recording it a Negative caster?
PS when do you want me to drive down
I have just gone and wound the trailing arms in so the bottom wishbone arms are now towards the front of the tunnel.
Looking down on the top ball joint the bottom joint is now in front - positive caster.
Amazing how only a couple of inches of adjustment makes such a difference.
More annoyed the machine did not pick up Negative!
Corky had a bit of fun with Caster IIRC
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Well that all worked out well.Quote:
Originally Posted by hollytree
Just been up and down the dual carriageway at 90kph (I think my gauges are KPH ahem!)
All feels good.
I must have been on negative camber. I will have a word with the man on the fancy machine tomorrow
Andrew
Thanks
That was the photo on the right I was looking for to describe the tunnel
From one extreme to the other?Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkspeed