It's no consolation to the problems you are encountering but there is always someone worse off than you are ;)
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It's no consolation to the problems you are encountering but there is always someone worse off than you are ;)
Attachment 8889
That's the good side Andrew!Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkspeed
John, I'm not sure that you have your details on the kit incorrect. The first owner of the mess (as I'm calling the kit) had the chassis modified to accept 12V Alfa V6. I have seen photos of all the parts that he collected to built the mess and there was nothing there to suggest that he was going to use US components. As far as US kit, they range from getting a bare body with drawings for the frame and a list of possible components, to a kit that one only needs to add an engine and transmission of their choice. What we don't have here is the USA is the kit car industry that you have in the UK. You have a whole industry built around providing parts for kit cars, there is no such industry in the USA. Another thing is that used components from US model cars were not part of the design of a UK kit. One thing to keep in mind is the I am of Scottish ancestry, and stubborn as you can imagine. The kit will be finished. Sorry my venting caused such a stir.Quote:
Originally Posted by john
Sorry my venting caused such a stir................... That's what we are here for !
Glad to hear that the kit will be finished..... you stubborn bugger !
These are what started my rant, as you can see, they are both the same side, and in the one with red circles you can see that one of them has broken studs. With all the duplicate parts that the first owner collected, he only collected two headlight mounts, both the same side, but did manage to get a right and left retainer ring. You would not believe the collection of parts (in various condition) from only who knows where and what type of vehicle. So from now on, those parts are going to sit there collecting dust, if I need something, it will be purchased new or at least in very good used condition.
So, I purchase a set of headlight mounting brackets for motorcycles, but they won't work, so I sent out to find replacement parts for the parts that I did have. I found these NOS OEM parts. These should work fine.
Still the work continues, got the headlight doors in place (the right side complete after this photo was taken), also got the side marker light in on the left, need to do the right side next.
Corky
Shouldnt the headlight rim front be flush the the black headlamp pod front cover?
Yea, you would think so, but this is where they ended up. The black piece lines up with the rest. If I adjust the link so it come up flush, it will not be flush when closed. But this is kind of a mute point for me because I will probably never drive it at night, so I will never need to use the lights.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancialulu
Hi Corky
With the outer black fiberglass cover/trim ring removed, does the metal mounting ring fit into the recess on the blue housing or it's too big?
Just took a quick look at mine - the housing I used was slightly too large also, so I cut it down and also enlarged the opening in a few discrete places. The surgery is covered by the trim ring, so no big deal. However, I did use a plastic housing so it was easier to cut down to size than your metal one:
Attachment 9044
Attachment 9045
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an example of the housing style I used: http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=WIPAC
or http://www.7ent.com/products/headlam...tic-s5400.html
Hi Corky, I think Tim meant that the chrome ring is protruding too far through the black surround rather that the surround not fitting flush with the bodywork.Quote:
Originally Posted by tipo158
As to getting the the lamp pod to be flush when closed and the trim flush when open there's a straightforward routine to go through.
Step one is to set the adjuster rod to a length such that the pod can open/close without fouling anywhere as the actuating arm rotates on the motor spindle.
Step two is to put the pod flush when closed and nip up the spindle nut.
Step three is to power up the motor to the up position and then cut the power so it sits up.
Step four, wind the adjuster open or closed so that the trim sits flush with the bodywork, counting the number of turns this takes.
Step five, halve this number and wind the adjuster back in the opposite direction.
Step six, slacken the spindle nut, check the pod doesn't foul as the arm rotates around the spindle, then position it so that it's flush with the body and nip up the securing nut.
Step seven, switch the power off so that the pod drops and it should end up parked flush.
If you still have an imbalance repeat the steps above and it'll get there!
Guy
Paul, it is pretty much flush with the outer edge, but I haven't put a light in or adjusted for proper aiming.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
The headlight holding assemblies that I used are the same ones used for a FIAT X1/9, they should be the correct ones, unless the Lister-Bell group uses something different.
Not necessarily the right ones Corky.
X19 items have not been right for a Corse for many years and I don't think Craig would specify them for the LB setup either
I don't actually recall what your setup is.
Corse mechanism or LB? I know you have LB fibreglass housings there.
I would try a plastic bowl like a Mini fitting, even if you have to cut the back off the bowl.
You can use expanding foam around the bowl or rim to get a decent vibration free mount for the bowl inside the fibreglass housing.
You can always sell the X19 items to someone building a Hawk!
The mechanism is all LB. Which Mini are you talking about the UK Mini or the German Mini? Remember, I'm in the USA and old Mini parts may not be as available as they are in the UK.Quote:
Originally Posted by john
Corky
Hi Corky
See the links I provided above
or from here: http://www.minimania.com/part/S5400/...g-Midget--Mini
same place I got my GP4 style turn indicators
Paul
Yes those are the ones Paul, I thought they should be available in the States.
If there is anything you can't source over there Corky you can always shout up and one of us will buy it here and ship it for you.
Was probably a good move buying the LB mechanism for the headlamps.
Just make sure that when the lamp assembly travels up and down it clears the back of the indicator unit and its wiring.
Guys method of getting the alignment works a treat on the Mazda/Ford motors as it does with the FIAT motors.
Thanks Paul, I didn't see your link earlier. How do you adjust the aiming on these, I don't see the adjustors in the link.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
But like I said, this is not critical for me since I doubt that I will ever have the lights up except to show people that they work.
Corky
I believe that Craig uses Mazda lift motors. Craig provided the lift motors with the body kit I bought from him.Quote:
Originally Posted by john
Corky
In the UK the lights need to point in the right direction for the annual test....whether used or not!Quote:
Originally Posted by tipo158
They need to here in the USA also, which is why I was looking for the adjusters.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lancialulu
Corky
Hi Corky
I agree the pictures didn't show very clearly, but there are adjustments on those headlight buckets I referenced.
Basically, the first thing to do is the process that Guy outlined - this ensures the back of the headlamp housing is flush with the hood when down and also reaches the proper up position - the photo you posted (post #87) looks as if the headlamp pod still needs to come up another bit so that the flat part at the bottom of the trim ring is flush with the hood surface (at the front) - compare your photo with the one I posted - there's no reason for them both not to be the same. It's an iterative back and forth process to get it right - Guy describes the method very well.
Once the up and down positions are good, then you can take care of the headlamp alignment itself. There are 2 screws on the Wipac housing I used that adjust horizontal and vertical alignment of the headlamp. You can see them in the picture below - they are the long screws connecting the metal ring to the plastic base. I did use a slightly different version than this picture shows - the back of the bowl is open, whereas the one below is closed. I needed this for clearance from the motor mechanism, but if you've any issues with that, you can simply cut the back off the bowl.
To be honest, I found the whole thing a bit of a pain to get exactly right, but I had other issues to deal with such as needing to modify Corse brackets and hinges to fit in the LB bodywork along with quite a bit of metal and fiberglass trimming and adjusting. Also I was using 2 left-hand Ford Probe motor assy's rather than a left and right (for some strange reason that's what the manual recommended), which made it even more interesting! None of that has any impact on your setup luckily.
http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server56...0.1280.JPG?c=2
I can send you more photos if needed - just let me know
The reason the Corse manual specifies two left hand motors dates back to when the Ford/Mazda motors were a new item to the market. For some reason best known to the manufacturers, the left hand motors had a retail price much cheaper than the right hand ones! When buying new it made more sense to buy two left hands!
These days, with so many MX5's being broken you can buy as many good used pairs as you like so the reason for buying two lefts has gone.
It was perpetuated as another Gooch myth ( so many of those......)
To fit a right hand motor to a left hand bracket is no problem. You either re drill the locating peg hole or cut the peg off all together. Only Corse specific this though.
Not the problem, I am using LB components. Got an email from Craig today that explains a lot.Quote:
Originally Posted by john
Corky
That's good - so what's next on the list I wonder? Would love to hear that engine firing up (hint - hint)
(BTW, the Corse reference I made was more to take the opportunity to point out my own challenges with the headlamps - I knew it wasn't relevant to your setup.
John - it required a lot more surgery than just redrilling a hole in my case because the covered section that the headlamps drop down into is smaller on the LB so I had to cut large sections off the Corse brackets to make them fit)
Well we didn't see that coming at the time Paul, sorry you had to do that.
Corky, I wasn't offering that as an explanation of your problem, just as an aside to explain why Paul had two LH motors on his kit!
OK, so you hijacked my post, right John. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by john
Paul, the engine start is a ways off, but there really wouldn't be much needed to get it running. Just to see if it runs, not to go for a drive.
Well, got off the couch again and into the shop. Took the front clip off, easier to work on the lighting that way. Found my turn indicators that ordered back in March, and made some brackets for mounting the driving lights. Waiting to connectors for the turn indicators, then I'll start wiring them up. Wish the wiring harness that I have had a better wiring diagram for it. I might have to try a create one myself. I wish that Lionel would have sent the mating connector for those ends that will connect to wiring that was not included with the wiring harnesses provided.
Hi
I managed to track down the company that Lionel used to make the looms. I can email the sheets.
NB they did not include a shielded cable for a speedo sensor over a drive shaft coupling so I had to take the loom out after it was in, unpick it, install a new Belden cable and then put it all back together again.
I am not sure what Lionel envisaged for speedo sensing and driving the speedo. There is a unit on the gearbox, but I could never get anything out of it.
Steve
I have the sheets, that is what I'm talking about, they are atrocious. There are pages that are suppose to be form board diagrams, but the wire bundles looking nothing like the form board pattern. I'm retired now, but I was an electrical engineer at Boeing, I know what these things should look like. A wiring diagram that shows the entire pathway of all circuits would be nice. As for speedo sensing, I'm not sure what he was thinking either. I am using a 6 speed gearbox from an Alfa GTA, and have no idea if there is a sensor on that gearbox. I will probably do a pickup off the front rotors.Quote:
Originally Posted by hollytree
No sensor on the six speed boxes, well certainly the gta. Signal came from the abs system.
From my experience of the supplier of the Corse wiring looms I certainly wouldn't recommend him to anyone.
The loom I had was poorly dimensioned and had enough basic errors to cause anyone problems.
As a side note on the speed I do not think it is necessary to run a shielded cable for the speedo if you are using an ecu supplied tacho signal. I have only experienced tacho to speedo interference on cars fitted with old school ignition coil driven tacho signals.
Finally, for the UK Iva the speedo signal needs to be taken from a driven wheel so that it can be checked/calibrated on the rollers at the actual IVA test.
Thanks strat24v, I was pretty sure that there wasn't any speed sensor on the GTA box. Strat Fan, I can believe that, I feel that whoever did the harness that I have, never had a car to verify the harness against. I will probably use it as a starting point and do the basic wiring (light, heater, and such) using it. I have a lot of wiring to do for the stand alone ECU that will take place of the not provided engine harness. Fortunately I don't have to deal with the same type of testing that you do in the UK, but it wouldn't be any different to move the pick up from a front wheel to a rear wheel.
Corky
Hi Corky
I can also vouch for the inadequacies of the Corse harness. Although time consuming, I was able to figure out the diagram well enough to make it work, but did need to modify in a number of areas. One thing to be very careful of is the grounding. I found that the ground returns for a number of circuits were not sufficient - can't remember everything, but one simple example is the rear lighting harness - there were maybe half a dozen connections for the rear lights but only a single thin gauge ground return for all of them. Same with the front lights. I added quite a few additional ground wires, and grounding studs on the chassis also, and daisy chained them all back to the battery so that I wasn't relying solely on conduction through the chassis to complete the circuit (except in the case of the starter due to amount of current). There were also a few 12V supplies that I either ran thicker wires or put in relays.
Looks like it doesn't apply to your gearbox, but I discarded the electronic sensor and ran a mechanical cable from the gearbox to a Fiat speedo instead
Thanks Paul, I plan on grounding my car like a Corvette, making many grounds all over the car. Daisy chaining is an idea, but on the Vette, the chassis grounds worked well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul
Corky
In going over the wiring diagrams I have found out that Lionel didn't ship two harnesses when he sent everything else. the two missing are the ones from the main harness to the front lights. No problem, I can make those, but I wish I had the mating connector to the main harness.
Corky
Hi Corky
You might want to consider changing it rather than trying to find a matching one. I cut it off and changed to a waterproof one instead. In fact, I split the harness into two smaller waterproof connectors - they were also flatter than the Lionel supplied one which makes it easier to get them through the slot on the side panel when you need to remove the front clam
I bought a kit like this and used it in many of the exposed locations:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...ductId=1354645
Regards
Paul
Good idea. ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Paul
Corky