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I can get some more I'm sure. I know the guy who made it. Anyone else want one? Sure we can censor the language. I'd like to show it to my son but he's a little bit young. Sure he knows the word but I'm still at the stage where I try to censor stuff for him!
Yes a version with a few asterisks suitably inserted might be a better bet! One for me please.
Hi guys, next video of Mounting the ARB
https://youtu.be/QKuu8Zo4O4w
Pretty sure I saw a bracket there for the front ARB mount? Gerry supplies a kit with ally blocks (two halves to clamp around the ARB with a nylon sleeve to go over the ARB. If you use Gerry's kit though it's very very close to the rubber gaitors on the steering rack so you need to radius the corners to reduce/eliminate wear.
Guy
mmm, don't think so? I've seen the ally blocks your talking about, and i think I've done my mounts in a similar place, there was definitely no mounting holes anywhere in the area, happy to be proved wrong though! From the pics i've seen the ally block through bolts go into threaded holes in the chassis? i thought about tracking down a kit, but will probably end up trying a few different bar diameters, so may not have ended up using much of it
Check the underside of the chassis where the forward bushing is for the upper wishbone pivot rod. There’s a plate running top right to bottom left. It ought to have a pair of holes in it. That’s where the blocks bolt to. Sure I saw it on the video!
This is what Guy means:Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Mayers
nice, thanks, yea that gusset plate is there, no holes though, thought about mounting it there, can't actually remember why i didn't, sure i had a good reason, or maybe not.....
Probably because the nylon blocks you’ve gone for are too big to fit there? If you’ve got clearance on the pinion and u/j it’ll work fine! And thank for the pics Chris!
Yes, my first Hawk (Safety Devices chassis) had the mounting plates, but no holes, and obviously no ARB fitted.Quote:
Originally Posted by ByrneEngineering
They're not mine Guy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Mayers
We should really thank Andy Phillips and Paul Ray from Detroit US.
Hi guys, next episode, oil cooler mounting
https://youtu.be/zhyfgkoM4d0
Hi guys, next episode, finish off the oil cooler
https://youtu.be/4B6fm9QhbaQ
Great stuff as always Col! Good to see supplies of SB's not affected by Lockdown. Stay safe mate!
Cheers!
Ade
Love it.
Excellent fab skills yet again. And 2 safety beers!
Next video, tackle some brake lines
https://youtu.be/kpPdw2sl0oc
It's been a little while, but I'm back with a Stratos Tarmac Rally car update and Drive shaft fix number 2
https://youtu.be/2h3VOA0jqOg
Great video - and nice to know that precision engineering still occasionally requires the judicious use of a sledge hammer !
No wonder you've been AWOL Col, you've been busy constructing a whole new person!!!
Love the VID and the 3 safety beers of course.....
Congratulations.
Cheers!
Ade
A precision sledge hammer of course! Cheers guys
Great video, was the other side as hard to separate (mine came apart much more easily, lol).
Keep them coming
Peter
Another great video. The head falling off the sledge hammer was gold! I genuinely laughed out loud :D
Spoiler alert..... But yeah, me too!
Oops! But there's so much more in it than just a broken sledge hammer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Guy Mayers
Haven't managed to separate the other cv yet, it might be getting to meet the angle soon.... The standard axle is to long anyway!
I think when you break your sledge hammer it's time for a different tactic
Thats very odd. I have done quite a few over the years and my normal problem is keeping them together whilst they are fitted. Do you think that the wrong circlips/clips were used on yours?
Not sure about the Circlips, eventually cut one of the axles i didn't need to get the CV and my press couldn't push the stub of the axle out, machined it out on the lathe and on inspection the circlip was very deep in the groove, no way it was going to compress, you'd have to shear off the circlip to push it out
In this episode I have a look at the fuel tank fittings and the spare wheel mount of the Tarmac rally Stratos, Happy Festivus!
https://youtu.be/OtcoOWPfilg
Enjoyed your festive offering Col. Just spoke to my daughter yesterday who lives and works in Sydney, complaining about a sunburnt nose!! She agreed that this was not very Christmasy. Today we awoke in the North East of England to a sprinkling of snow - that's more like it!Quote:
Originally Posted by ByrneEngineering
Happy Christmas to all - both Down Under and across the remainder of the Stratos world!
Cheers!
Ade
So I totally forgot you need an alternator and the original one on the engine didn't fit, so this episode i tackle the that situation
https://youtu.be/0DiojvVLFAI
I have had the same problem as well on the alternator.................I would like to have gone for 240 Amps after doing some initial calculations of possible loads on my build but I am struggling to find a high output small compact unit. Therefore I had to compromise and go for a 175 Amp. The unit that I purchased is below as it will fit in the restricted space both in length and diameter:
WOSP LMA300HO - Universal Race Alternator
Just drawing up required new mounting brackets................
Neat solution for mounting the alternator - but maybe a daft question - Why didnt you attach the alternator protective cover to the chassis instead of the alternator/engine block ? Surely that would reduce the risk of shattering the alternator end housing?
that is certainly a lot of Amps! good find, not exactly the cheapest unit in the world though!
Good Question, I did look at that option for a long time. Problem I was seeing is that if i mounted it to the chassis, I've got to allow for movement between the cover and the belt drive, so I couldn't have a close fitting cover, so to get the same protection I'd have ended up with a massive cover, and then i was running into also sorts of clearance issues with the fuel tank, exhaust and strut.Quote:
Why didn't you attach the alternator protective cover to the chassis instead of the alternator/engine block
As you say there is always the risk of shattering the alt. housing, but the cover is very light, and the lip buts up against the alternator and block, so its not bouncing around on the studs, I think that risk is fairly low.
Nice work yet again.
Is it me or does your band saw seem to move around a lot?!
Yep, that overworked little bandsaw is not the most stable thing in the world, it's on wheels, which dosn't 't help, I've got a proper vertical bandsaw sitting on my trailer, but it's massive and I need some help getting it into the workshop
Wheels would explain it somewhat!
Jealous of your workshop though. I have a small pillar drill and a bench vice and that's it apart from the usual hand tools. Oh I do have a small compressor too.....
Next Video, I have a look at a wheel bearing issue
https://youtu.be/Z7rp34zyhQc
Col, thats perseverance for you. I would have needed a slab of safety beers before considering that task and still wouldn't have had the skills to complete it.....Well done!
Cheers Ade
While you're beefing things up at the front, the chassis mount for the tie bar needs reinforcing on early Spyder chassis. Of course if you are using an r/j then you have probably sidestepped this problem already. Keep up the good work!
Ade, if you count the safty beers i drank as i flew into a furious rage after i discovered the issue, that estimation would be fairly accurate...
Are you talking about the front lower "caster" arm? Yea I've already made significant changes to that, No rose joint as i'm trying to keep at least one end of every arm with some sort of bushing as I've had serious issues with fatigue on totally rose jointed rally car suspension before. Anyway, the body mount has been modified for a bushing and the whole area has been beefed up a bit, thanks for the heads up thoughQuote:
While you're beefing things up at the front, the chassis mount for the tie bar needs reinforcing on early Spyder chassis. Of course if you are using an r/j then you have probably sidestepped this problem already