Corse I CV joints

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Originally Posted by hollytree

There are no limits on the shafts to stop excess plunge. The shaft goes in through the gaiter, through the bearing and then a circlip goes on to stop it all falling out.
This is the same both ends of the driveshafts, both the inner and out CVs.
I have checked and now limited the droop, so that at full extension there is still side-to -side movement, so that the circlip is not trying to pull on the cages.
I have also jacked up the car and spun the wheels when at full droop when holding and pushing the driveshafts fully towards the gearbox, and fully towards the hub to see if any noise,contact etc. All negative.

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So in effect, the only thing that is limiting the inner races, shaft and balls from exiting sideways are the rubber boots? I'd look at some sort of soft compressible thing in the joint. Didn't they used to use half a tennis ball or something?

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Originally Posted by strat24v

So in effect, the only thing that is limiting the inner races, shaft and balls from exiting sideways are the rubber boots? I'd look at some sort of soft compressible thing in the joint. Didn't they used to use half a tennis ball or something?

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If the shafts are the correct length then balls should not be able to reach the point where the balls can fall out of the CV body, the inner flange will prevent the shaft migrating too far inwards and the out stub shaft would prevent it moving too far outwards. If the shaft is too short then there could be cause for concern. Hawk & LB don't have this issue because the outer CV's only rotate, they do not plunge so it is not possible for the shafts to tramp side to side. There is nothing wrong with a double plunge shaft as plenty of cars use them but the length of the shaft is key to its success/reliability.

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Originally Posted by Strat Fan

If the shafts are the correct length then balls should not be able to reach the point where the balls can fall out of the CV body, the inner flange will prevent the shaft migrating too far inwards and the out stub shaft would prevent it moving too far outwards. If the shaft is too short then there could be cause for concern. Hawk & LB don't have this issue because the outer CV's only rotate, they do not plunge so it is not possible for the shafts to tramp side to side. There is nothing wrong with a double plunge shaft as plenty of cars use them but the length of the shaft is key to its success/reliability.

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There are no inner restraints on the shafts that I got. The only inner restraint is clamping the gaiter to the shaft, but I have used one hand to turn each wheel, and the other the force the shaft in both directions when the wheel is turning to listen/feel for any issues. Nothing.

I may have to think about the tennis ball or a squash ball. Anyone remember the Kawasaki KH250 air cooled triple. The middle pistons used to size because they ran hot. A mate of mine bought one that was not running well. We took the heads/barrels off, to find the middle piston missing, and the small end just going up and down inside a tennis ball.

Only thing I can think of is the shaft pushing sideways under load and a ball or two being right on the shoulder of the inner or outer race then it jumping back in.
It would be worth trying something like a squash ball perhaps?
Have you had cvs fitted, both centred then taken shaft dimensions at full bump, full droop and neutral/centre position?

took the caliper off and see attached.
Something was still in the hole. It looked like some sort of fixing to align the pad material to the backing plate, but was twisted on the hole in the friction material, and where has the rest gone.
That might explain the hot running of that hub/outer CV yesterdayAttachment 13020

Remains of a pad wear indicator?

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Originally Posted by Guy Mayers

Remains of a pad wear indicator?

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No
Nothing like that on the other pad, and no corresponding hole
There is about 10mm of pad left. Both pads are the same thickness as well.
Maybe something was in that hole and kept slipping out and jamming between pad and disc and then randomly going back in again.
I will refit pad and take another drive and see

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Originally Posted by Guy Mayers

Remains of a pad wear indicator?

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Seems like a good shout-
Attachment 13021
Probably had the wire cut off when first installed.

This is what I would expect to see at the rear of a Corse I installation.
Attachment 13023
Damper wise a 15" open length coilover with 92mm of travel would give 130mm of wheel movement.

Craig
I had 16" dampers and got them shortened to 14.5". The problem is, that to stop the tyre hitting the body behind the door at the 10 o'clock position. Not the clamshell arch.
I also need 3 bump stops on the damper rod, that takes a lot of the travel straight out of the damper.