Corse I CV joints

Not at the moment but it is in the way of me working on the first car which is showing a real reluctance to run properly. Must update that thread...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hollytree

The inner section came out nicely, but the outer with the wheel flange took a bit of brute force, and tapping of a big socket
No evidence of any grease in the hub , and the outer bearing does not want to move off the shaft. Will have to find someone in St Albans to press the bearings off and press the new ones in.
A big pile of black duct fell on the floor and really smells of burning.

I think I may have found the problem.

Looks like Granada Scorpio 5 stud bearing for rear is FBK090

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Be very careful not to damage the alloy divider which sits between the two bearing races, once that is broken the upright is scrap. The divider is approx. 4mm wide and is part of the casting. If someone over presses or abuses the bearings they can shear off and that's it ruined.

Well I got the suspension setup on Friday and getting all the settings green I went for a quick spin.
There was a bang and all drive lost. Strange because when I revved the engine slightly with the clutch engaged the speedo showed 15mph.
This meant the LHS drive shaft was turning as the speedo sensor is on that CV joint.
Quick grab of the drive shaft and it was obvious the outer CV joint was shot.
Got the car home on a trailer - big thanks to ClassicLine recovery.

Took the CV joint apart and obvious the cage was cracked.
Got a new one fitted and checked everything with damper spring off .
My rear dampers were 16 1/2" on full extension. This is too much and i have sent them to AVO to shorten to 15" where the drive shaft spins with zero resistance.
At 15" i have very little travel before the wheel hits the bodywork at the 10 o'clock position.
Bought longer bolts for the bottom rear wishbone mount and with a spacer to push the wishbone back say 10mm, i get roughly 25mm more travel before the wheel hits the body work. Had to do a bit of trig there.
Marked the toe by using long steel ruler against the hub and making pen mark on the bodywork, then when when I pushed the rear wishbone back I adjusted the trailing arm to get the same approx toe in.
All the rear suspension moves full travel smoothly by hand with no binding and i think I should now have plenty of droop and bump without hitting the bodywork and without stressing the CV joint at stupid angles on full droop.
I also have plenty of room for plunge at full droop with nothing binding.

Pity the car came with 16 1/2" dampers in the first place.

steve

Steve