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The engine can be ticking over on the drive or just been thrashed and the water temp is around or over 170*F and is still ticking over nicely..... Switch off and try to restart.... no joy, even though the laptop shows the inputs to the Emerald are all happy.... Fuel pressure is good and spark @ the plugs is good. Once the engine cools a little then we're off again... Any ideas? Fuel temp due to recirculation?
Maybe fuel temp getting high enough to have a bit of vapourisation if you are circulating through your swirl pot. Stock Bosch unit on a 164 has a built in immersed cooler.
Should be a hot starting setting in the mapping Al?
Add more fuel at that temp and cranking revs. Try 20% more fuel for hot cranking ( only )
may need less once you know that is what it needs, worked for me.
Bobbler
My 1st thoughts John, could be proved by filling the tanks full? When replacing the engine, I also revised the fuel config. I now have the Bosch 044 T'd in direct to the tanks (No swirl pot) and the return T'd into the top of both tanks (Poss vapourisation!!)........................Rob, I'll send an email to Emerald and see what they come back re settings. Interestingly, I picked this up from another forum and may have a play today..................He's from Hungary and translates via Google...Hi, guys! http://www.rhocar.org/public/style_e...ault/smile.gif
Finally I found the problem my Zetec engine. http://www.rhocar.org/public/style_e...t/spiteful.gif
As always, everything was very simple. After reading a bunch of information about Emerald ECU, having tried various settings ECU, I measured the level of the oscilloscope and the phase of the signal from the crankshaft sensor. Proved that the sensor has been connected with reverse polarity. Just on the sensor did not specify - and signal ground. And in reverse polarity sensor is unstable when the engine is hot. Now engine starts well and is stable at any temperature. So if someone has run into this problem, see the polarity of the crankshaft sensor.
Good luck!
I didn't agree with the above but fitted a temp cross, which resulted in the expected red LED on the ECU :-) Back to plan A...Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadami
on your return line to your tanks, how is the fuel discharged back into the tank? Do you just have a welded on fitting or do you have a welded in tube which discharges below the level of fuel in the bottom of the tank. You may have fuel aeration?? Just grasping at straws really, reverting to how it was setup on the 164 should solve your problem, just difficult to re configure it like that. Guys method of the complete pump assembly fitted in the tank is as good a solution as any.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadami
Again, I'm thinking on the same lines John. The return discharges back into the tank via a weld on but the tanks are foam filled, which should help. I was considering fitting a length of suitably sized 1/4" clutch / brake pipe with a flared end inside the weld on, routing the return fuel to the bottom of the tank. Not sure if the foam will cause me problems with pipe routing though...
Thanks for the vote of confidence John, my dead donor Alfa is going to be dragged away tomorrow (no wheels or subframes so dragged is the appropriate word!) and the last part that I'd meant to remove weeks and weeks ago was........ the fuel pump and swirl pot! So, now I've got two spares sat on the shelf if anyone needs one drop me a line!Quote:
Originally Posted by strat24v
Guy
Are the front hubs available Guy?
Gone to a good home already Allen. Rear hubs are still there but I doubt they're interchangeable!
Guy