Rear Suspension Overhaul

Here's a plea for help from me for a change! I'm in the process of overhauling the rear suspension and driveshaft at the moment whilst I wait for the engine to come back... I'm looking for some bits and hope someone out there has them lying about doing nothing!

Okay, Beta top mounts, they're in fairly good condition but the threads on the locating pins have seen better days. Does anyone have four that they've punched out of a pair of top mounts spare? And whilst you're at it, the lock washers for the strut too?

Next, advice - the springs have seen better days an could do with a coat of paint. I suspect Hammerite might be a bit brittle, anybody got any thoughts what would be a good paint to use?

Leda struts - I think I'm going to have to get destructive to remove the nut unless the overnight soaking in penetrating oil works!! Does anyone know what the nut/thread size is in case I have to replace them?

Cheers

Guy

Punch yours out and weld/braze on new bolts?
Plasicote sort of stuff?
No.
:cool:

For the springs, I'd take them to a local powder coater and get them stripped and re-coated, it's a cheap enough process. Otherwise I'd recommend an enamel paint (not Hammerite), it's tough, flexible and you won't need to primer them.

Vince.

Guy,

Do you mean the nut at the very top/centre?
You need a rattle gun.

Lock washers?
The 'D' hole ones with the tabs that eventually brake off if you try to use them more than once or twice?
See PM.

I wouldn't powder coat the springs unless you are sure that the heating process wont affect the temper of the material. SOme powder coaters are quite sloppy about temperatures and you could damage the springs. In addition, you would need to get these springs really clean and have them pretreated with a phosphate or similar if you wanted the coating to stick otherwise it will just tend to peel off in a year or two.

The key will be to get the springs really clean and grease free, apply a metal primer (POR15 metal ready is good - you should be able to see a change to the surface as the coating builds up), then top coat - most liquid paints will have the flexibility. Semi gloss finishes tend to last better under the car than either full gloss or matt.

Hope this helps.

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Originally Posted by ProtoTipo

Guy,
You need a rattle gun.

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One of these, or similar.

We paint quite a few springs for Porsche Cup cars, We use acid etch primer which is easy to use and available in aerosol cans followed by standard 2K paint in any colour you like. If you are really worried about flexibility Standox do a addative called Standflex which is designed primarily for flexible plastic parts but can be added to the top coat to give added flexibility.

If the end coil is open, slip some heatshrink sleeping over?

"Sleeping Over"? You sure you have your mind on the subject in hand here, John?

It's this bloody phone! It changed cnut to Cynthia once!

Guy, i have a full set of rear suspension including top mounts, see PM
dave

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Originally Posted by strat24v

It's this bloody phone! It changed cnut to Cynthia once!

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Foot off!, Cynthia!

If there old springs Guy I would bite the bullet and just buy new ones. They would have lost there original spring rate by now anyway. Car would feel better on a new set.

Graham

Springs are fine, they were replaced a few years ago and have plenty of life left in them. Unlike the rest of the far suspension components!

Rear shock seals both failed and struts look like they've been weeping. The other slight problem is that the nuts were seized solid and wouldn't shift, 10 minutes with a drill and the pilot hole was enlarged enough to split the thread and remove both which revealed a more serious seizure. the bush in the top mount to the strut. Despite soaking in penetrating oil all weekend and being under pressure from a gear puller there's no sign of them parting company so it looks like I'm going to have bite the bullet and replace the top mounts and struts. Oh well.... This time I'll use a little more grease!

Guy

Not great news for you. how old are your rear shocks/top mounts? regular servicing is the only real way to keep these bits in top condition. A good blast with WD40 after a rainy day and clean off when you have more time may help. Used that on my mountain bike and Gp4 Escort for years and kept corrosion away until I had time to clean thorughly.

Good luck.

Graham

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Originally Posted by Guy Mayers

Springs are fine, they were replaced a few years ago and have plenty of life left in them. Unlike the rest of the far suspension components!

Rear shock seals both failed and struts look like they've been weeping. The other slight problem is that the nuts were seized solid and wouldn't shift, 10 minutes with a drill and the pilot hole was enlarged enough to split the thread and remove both which revealed a more serious seizure. the bush in the top mount to the strut. Despite soaking in penetrating oil all weekend and being under pressure from a gear puller there's no sign of them parting company so it looks like I'm going to have bite the bullet and replace the top mounts and struts. Oh well.... This time I'll use a little more grease!

Guy

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Guy - is it possible to get a blow torch or similar on the bush to heat/expand it enough to hit off, without melting or burning anything?

Mike

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Originally Posted by shakey5

Guy - is it possible to get a blow torch or similar on the bush to heat/expand it enough to hit off, without melting or burning anything?

Mike

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No Mike - the bush is about 3cm across and bonded to the rubber part of the top mount. The top mounts are from my donor car, vintage 1978 and were in pretty good condition despite their age. I suspect that destroying the strut is the solution as I'll be able to press out the remains without too much trouble. Probably going solid mount even though!

Guy

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Originally Posted by Guy Mayers

... And whilst you're at it, the lock washers for the strut too? ...

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I seem to recall that these were available from BetaBoyz, so you might check with them.
I bought some a while back, and pretty sure it was from them.

Hi Guy,
My Leda struts are M14 x 1.5mm. I have a die if you need it to clean up the threads.
Ref the springs.. I recently got a new set made in Sheffield £80 for the pair plus VAT and carriage. (300lb spring rate)
The company was "Springcoil"
I know you may not want to do this, but your springs may be a bit tired.
I have an original set of springs from Gerry that you can have, but they're VERY hard.
Cheers
Andrew

Thanks Andrew - the problem is that the steel bush in the Beta topmount is so corroded onto the strut I can;t shift it without destroying something! The something is the strut shaft which will give me the chance to put the remains on a bench press with a couple of sockets and remove the remains from the top mounts saving them. The struts are 12 years old now and have seen better days and are almost impossible to get reconditioned now so I've bitten the bullet and ordered a new set from Gerry. the springs are fine and I'll be able to reuse them! Thanks for the offer though!

Guy

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Originally Posted by Guy Mayers

The struts are 12 years old now and have seen better days and are almost impossible to get reconditioned now

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Guy - is it the fact they are old and maybe corroded that means you can't get them reconditioned, or because you can't find anyone that is doing it these days? Thinking I need to get a pair of my struts reconditioned, if not too late

Old and corroded John! They've been soaking in oil/diesel/anything else I can think of for over 2 weeks now and they aren't letting go! Hence scrap time! i haven't looked too hard for someone to overhaul them, I'd read on the Supersite that Leda weren't trading anymore but that there was someone able to service them. All in all, not worth bothering in my case now!CheersGuy

Guy,
Gaz / Dampertech will rebuild Leda struts
contact Dave at Dampertech
Rob

Thanks Rob but there's little point now that I've got a new set on the way. Plus I'll be destroying the struts to save the top mounts and springs... I'll save what's left in case anyone else wants to have a go at having them reconditioned if that's possible once I've butchered the strut piston rod!Guy

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Originally Posted by Guy Mayers

I'll save what's left in case anyone else wants to have a go at having them reconditioned if that's possible once I've butchered the strut piston rod!Guy

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The rods go in the bin in any case Guy, so it will be worth saving the other parts.