Quaife LSD in Corse I

Well I got the diff out from the 12v 164 engine without having to remove the engine from the chassis.
No debris in casing and no signs of damage. Hopefully the bangs and noise was the wheel bearing, 'cos if it was not that, all that is left is the gearbox.
I had to take the gearbox mount off so I could raise the gearbox about an inch to wiggle the diff cover and diff out together. The cover would not come away with the diff in position as it hit the bottom rear rail.
New diff in post from Autolusso. £630 delivered including new seals.

Anyone know the following please.
Torgue settings for left and right driveshaft cover bolts
Torque settings for diff cover bolts
Torque settings for crownwheel

Any thread lock required on any of those.

Thanks
Steve

Per my 164 workshop manual (mechanical)
Crownwheel to Diff - 59 to 66.4 ft lbs/81 to 90Nm
Diff Cover Bolts 17.7 to 22.9 ft lbs/24 to 31 Nm
Seal covers 17.7 to 22.9 ft lbs/24 to 31 Nm (yes, the same value as the cover bolts)

No mention of threadlock, the speedo drive should be transferred from your old diff too.

Guy

Guy
Thanks. binned the speedo drive as I am using an electronic one with a sensor mounted on Craig's bracket scanning the flange nuts.

Quafe arrived today.
How do I separate the left hand side stub driveshaft (bit from the diff to left drive flange) from the crownwheel.
It passes through the centre of the crownwheel, but I cannot see a circlip. Found a circlip, but really difficult to get to, as no plier holes like normal, and output gear obscures access
How do i get the bearings off the left side seal cover so I can put it all back together.

Powerunits in Hatfield did a good job rebuilding the rear uprights. Measured all up accurately to make sure no risk of damage, and even machined up supports so when pressing the bearings there was no load going onto the 4mm flange inside the Corse I uprights.

The small flange that goes to the passenger side wheel?

It 'pulls' out. I used a slide hammer and a home made bracket bolted to 2 of the holes on the flange. One sharp slide of the hammer and out it came.

Bracket was basically a flat price of metal, with a hole in the middle for the slide hammer shaft and a hole at each end to bolt to the holes in the flange.

I did it with the diff cover bolts still all bolted up, nothing else removed.

You pop the LH flange out before you remove the diff from the gearbox. It is retained by a wire type circlip that you cannot see. you need to use a small pry bar between the flange and the diff casing to apply some pressure and then either tap the flange with a nylon hammer to release it. If this doesn't work you may need to apply pressure on opposite sides but it should release relatively easily.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Strat Fan

You pop the LH flange out before you remove the diff from the gearbox. It is retained by a wire type circlip that you cannot see. you need to use a small pry bar between the flange and the diff casing to apply some pressure and then either tap the flange with a nylon hammer to release it. If this doesn't work you may need to apply pressure on opposite sides but it should release relatively easily.

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The old diff is out.
There is definitely a circlip there holding it all together. I will try and pick that out and then apply some slight force.
I dont want to force it or try the slide hammer route, the circlip is there!

Is it a square or round section clip? The stock part is a round section spring clip, that is slightly oversized. When inserted, it compresses down on the chamfer and slides into the splines, then when fully home, just pops out the other side, expanding again. This is what retains the flange in place in use. Removal is normally as Craig et al have said, apply some outward force, the clip compresses back and allows the flange to slide out. They can feel quite tight sometimes.

If it is a square section, then yes indeed, it’ll need removing first, but it would be non standard if it was.

Craig/Chris
Thanks for the advice. Box was new.
So, clamped the crownwheel in vice (with jaw protectors). Got pry bar between flange and collar. Gave the end of the driveshaft a soft tap and bingo!
It all then slid straight out.

I left the circlip on and pushed driveshaft into new diff. Is that right?

I bolted the Quaife to the deeper dished side of the crownwheel - I am now just doubting myself. Is that right?

Thanks
Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hollytree

I left the circlip on and pushed driveshaft into new diff. Is that right?

I bolted the Quaife to the deeper dished side of the crownwheel - I am now just doubting myself. Is that right?

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By driveshaft I assume you mean output shaft?
This is the last thing to go back in once the diff is fitted back into the car. It is comparable to the intermediate shaft on the other side of the diff, it is only in the way until the diff housing is back in the car.
1) fit crown wheel to diff
2) bearings onto diff
3) diff back into housing
4) diff casing on
5) bearing shims positioned
6) output flange seal castings bolted on
7) end float checked
8) bolts torqued
9) output shaft refitted
10) intermediate shaft refitted

Craig
Thanks
Do bolts go from shallower dish side of crownwheel with diff sitting on deeper dish side
OR
Do bolts go from deeper dish side of crownwheel with diff sitting on shallower dish side

A couple of images from Alfa Workshop- https://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/156-1...erential.shtml

Attachment 13082Attachment 13083

Chris/Craig
Thanks for all you help.
2 new CVs both sides
2 new wheel bearings both sides
Quaife LSD fitted

All quiet now, no noises or bangs.
Hooray

See you all at Silveerstone if not before.

How do you like the feel of it? I was really impressed with the Q2 I fitted.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NoCorseChris

How do you like the feel of it? I was really impressed with the Q2 I fitted.

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Well I havnt really had time to give it a good workout.
There a two tight 90 degree bends in the lane I live in.
It certainly brings the nose round much better when applying power mid bend.
Steve