its correct to mount the wheels then fit the brakes to suit after, otherwise you alter the track, scrub radius and a whole host of other things. Geometry first, brake package after.
its correct to mount the wheels then fit the brakes to suit after, otherwise you alter the track, scrub radius and a whole host of other things. Geometry first, brake package after.
no it's better to mount first brakes and than make the wheel so you can stay into the
track width!
if you make first the rims and than you need a spacer to have some clearance to the brake than you are out of the track width!
than you have the problem with the track width, scrub radius and a whole host of other things.
Enzo
what youre saying is make cast wheels at umpteen thousands of cost to fit round a one off brake setup that cost maybe three hundred quid and nobody else may use?? You normally find the wheels are made already to suit the track and geometry of the vehicle, youd make the upgraded brakes to suit. Guess its just easier to make some flat plates to mount the calipers then stick a 25mm spacer between that and the disc bell.(but not for me)
Here we go, correct way.
If we are starting with say a group 4 stratos replica rear with the consortiums wheels (see what i did there!)You have your chassis, suspension, geometry, wheels, hubs already supplied. Rather than make flat plates for the calipers and stick big spacers behind the wheel to get your caliper clearance, what you do is choose your disc diameter and calipers effective diameter so you know the wheel will go over it, that caliper will then be inset so it doesn't foul the rim anywhere, you then take dimensions to mount the caliper in position , after that, you choose a disc or have bells made to put the disc in the correct position to fit with the caliper. If not you end up with the Carlos Fandango look which looks like they dont know what they are doing. Not too hard to download some free CAD software, draw it all out, then select the brake calipers and discs, bells. Think thats the White/Halstead way of doing it, rather than buying something that doesnt fit, then making it fit (sort of)
Last edited by strat24v; 16-11-2012 at 16:30.
correct way for an Hawk that's right!
but with this way you can not mounted Hawk coffin spoke wheels on an Corse or Allora
i build first the brakes and than TMB make the rims with my measurements so i stay in to the track wide!
BTW i have ordered the PAG 15 in 8x15 ET 0 front and 9x15 ET-12 rear for the Marcolino Stratos Prototipo.
So by doing that, does your king pin inclination point meet the tire centre at the ground?
"The steering axis inclination determines, together with the caster, the resetting forces and the camber of the steered wheels,
also, together with the wheel-rim offset, influences the steering offset."
"The caster generally describes the distance that the tyre travels after it's track point."
i know what you mean but my Allora is a Replica and i have no works settings.
so i have do my best to stay into the axis inclination determines, together with the caster and wheel-rim offset,
and i am a little out of king pin so i have reset forces of the steered wheels only by full impact of the steerring wheel
but the straight run and the brakes from Delta Integrale are perfect!
and that is what i need.
I hope the translation it's correct!
Enzo
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