Maybe fuel temp getting high enough to have a bit of vapourisation if you are circulating through your swirl pot. Stock Bosch unit on a 164 has a built in immersed cooler.
Maybe fuel temp getting high enough to have a bit of vapourisation if you are circulating through your swirl pot. Stock Bosch unit on a 164 has a built in immersed cooler.
Should be a hot starting setting in the mapping Al?
Add more fuel at that temp and cranking revs. Try 20% more fuel for hot cranking ( only )
may need less once you know that is what it needs, worked for me.
Bobbler
Last edited by Sando; 01-06-2013 at 09:05.
My 1st thoughts John, could be proved by filling the tanks full? When replacing the engine, I also revised the fuel config. I now have the Bosch 044 T'd in direct to the tanks (No swirl pot) and the return T'd into the top of both tanks (Poss vapourisation!!)........................Rob, I'll send an email to Emerald and see what they come back re settings. Interestingly, I picked this up from another forum and may have a play today..................He's from Hungary and translates via Google...Hi, guys!
Finally I found the problem my Zetec engine.
As always, everything was very simple. After reading a bunch of information about Emerald ECU, having tried various settings ECU, I measured the level of the oscilloscope and the phase of the signal from the crankshaft sensor. Proved that the sensor has been connected with reverse polarity. Just on the sensor did not specify - and signal ground. And in reverse polarity sensor is unstable when the engine is hot. Now engine starts well and is stable at any temperature. So if someone has run into this problem, see the polarity of the crankshaft sensor.
Good luck!
Last edited by Cadami; 01-06-2013 at 10:22.
I didn't agree with the above but fitted a temp cross, which resulted in the expected red LED on the ECU :-) Back to plan A...Originally Posted by Cadami
on your return line to your tanks, how is the fuel discharged back into the tank? Do you just have a welded on fitting or do you have a welded in tube which discharges below the level of fuel in the bottom of the tank. You may have fuel aeration?? Just grasping at straws really, reverting to how it was setup on the 164 should solve your problem, just difficult to re configure it like that. Guys method of the complete pump assembly fitted in the tank is as good a solution as any.My 1st thoughts John, could be proved by filling the tanks full? When replacing the engine, I also revised the fuel config. I now have the Bosch 044 T'd in direct to the tanks (No swirl pot) and the return T'd into the top of both tanks (Poss vapourisation!!)........................Rob, I'll send an email to Emerald and see what they come back re settings. Interestingly, I picked this up from another forum and may have a play today..................He's from Hungary and translates via Google...Hi, guys!
Finally I found the problem my Zetec engine.
As always, everything was very simple. After reading a bunch of information about Emerald ECU, having tried various settings ECU, I measured the level of the oscilloscope and the phase of the signal from the crankshaft sensor. Proved that the sensor has been connected with reverse polarity. Just on the sensor did not specify - and signal ground. And in reverse polarity sensor is unstable when the engine is hot. Now engine starts well and is stable at any temperature. So if someone has run into this problem, see the polarity of the crankshaft sensor.
Good luck!
Again, I'm thinking on the same lines John. The return discharges back into the tank via a weld on but the tanks are foam filled, which should help. I was considering fitting a length of suitably sized 1/4" clutch / brake pipe with a flared end inside the weld on, routing the return fuel to the bottom of the tank. Not sure if the foam will cause me problems with pipe routing though...
I like that idea.....might just try that!
Glad Emerald agreed about the extra shot of fuel Al. It can take at least a couple of revolutions of cranking before the ECU even gets in sync, so although that initial shot is important it also needs it over the first few seconds of cranking.
As soon as it fires the revs rise and take it out of these cranking sites on the map and gets the correct fuelling anyway.
if it persists I'd take it back to your Dyno man. he should have done this for you when he did the mapping if he was worth his salt.
Agree about aeration of the fuelling and vaporisation being a possible cause too. Your Bosch 044 pump will flow a lot of fuel on tickover when at pressure but the injectors taking very little (that pump is meant for big turbo cars) and if you haven't got return feeds down to the bottom of the tanks. Also the amount of fuel in the tanks may affect this if you are running quite low when it is sitting and getting hot. Would have thought the fuel circulating and in the tank would need to be quite hot to do this though. With the open slats of our engine bay though not sure our cars would ever get as hot as a car with a tight fitting insulated bonnet and hot rad. Stick a fuel pressure gauge on and see what happening at your standing temperatures.
Last edited by Sando; 02-07-2013 at 17:31.
Thanks for the vote of confidence John, my dead donor Alfa is going to be dragged away tomorrow (no wheels or subframes so dragged is the appropriate word!) and the last part that I'd meant to remove weeks and weeks ago was........ the fuel pump and swirl pot! So, now I've got two spares sat on the shelf if anyone needs one drop me a line!
Guy
Are the front hubs available Guy?
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