Reply With QuoteHere you go. Hope you can read it ok.
The settings I asked for were Craig's suggestions.
Blink confirmed that these were very much the same settings they use on an Elise and very similar to the MX5's they prepare.
Hi Paul,
Well as you say nothing too onerous to sort out there.
Guess it's a little disappointing but you already know it should be a breeze when you go back.
We've often said on here that certain issues are open to interpretation by different inspectors but sounds like you have had a decent guy there who alas could not pass due to straightforward stuff and you've accepted it quite correctly that way.
I'm no expert but I think it will be Caster angle on the front you need to change. Adjust the trailing link length. Maybe your bottom ball joint is wrong and you are not getting enough articulation in the joint to get enough Caster?
As I said I'm no expert and preferred to leave initial set up on Frederics Corse to Blink Motorsport, only a mile from my workshop. I have a print out of the settings they achieved so will try and post a picture up for you shortly.
Has worked pretty well on initial road use.
Here you go. Hope you can read it ok.
The settings I asked for were Craig's suggestions.
Blink confirmed that these were very much the same settings they use on an Elise and very similar to the MX5's they prepare.
Thanks John for posting this information. It is great to know what an initial set up should look like. My initial set up was 1 degree negative camber and 4.5 degrees positive castor, spookily close to your configuration.
I have 1 degree of toe-in and I see that you run parallel.
I will double check my measurements, fit the new ball joints and then remeasure and test the outcome.
I am suspicious of the bottom ball joint and await the replacement delivery early next week. Paul
Hello Paul,
As John says it is extra caster you require for the self centering on the steering. If you have already set the bump steer with the caster as it is set now then you could disconnect the swing bolt where it attaches to the TCA and wind it in say 3 full turns, the thread is a 2mm pitch & every 2 full turns will add approx 1 degree of caster so this would increase the caster to approx 6 degrees. This way after the test you can wind the swing bolt back to where you are now safe in the knowledge that you don't need to reset the bumpsteer. Quite often a new ball joint has a reasonable amount of stiction which can hinderthe self centering, once the ball joint loses its "newness" then things will free up, not helpful for IVA but something I have witnessed in the past which could be worth mentioning to the examiner on the retest.
If you have 1 degree of toe in then this could possibly affect the self centering too, 10minutes is a better starting point for the front axle.
With regards to the rear settings, the set up John has posted is very agressive on the rear (the front is fine), the rear toe is marginally more than I would start with & the rear camber is way more than I would look for on a road car.
Good luck with the retest!
"You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead"
Stan Laurel
Yes. More than I would want too in an ideal world, but a work in progress. Definitely more than Paul would want on A Stradale style on what size rear tyre?Originally Posted by Strat Fan
I think the Corse "S" cars did run quite aggressive rear toe settings so these would probably be fine, it's the camber that is not ideal & I appreciate that this is out of your control currently on Frederics car.
A strut type suspension system offers less camber gain in bump than the equivalent double wishbone set up so it is common to see more static negative camber on strut equipped track based cars to help compensate for the increased roll generated where the cornering loads & grip are greater but this wouldn't be suitable to a road car where the car spends substantially more time heading in a straight line.
"You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead"
Stan Laurel
The corse settings recommended by Steve greenwood for the S are on my website http://m.turbonutter.net/site/mobile...etwork=fw#1022
The I settings are there as well, but not sure who gave me those.
My S ran a touch more toe and 7 deg front castor....
Last edited by turbonutter; 07-06-2015 at 14:08.
Some video from the IVA test day: https://www.facebook.com/michael.eus...02876717517852
Car unloaded outside the Norwich test centre:
During the test, the headlights were found to be pointing down too much, so we adjusted the headlamps themselves, which ran out of adjustment so we just lengthened the arms on the headlamp opening mechanism - hence why they're not quite flush in the closed position shown below. We'll sort this once the car has passed IVA.
The other Stratos that has previously been through the test centre...
...which was on the Norwich test centre's Very Cool Wall.
Do the Clio door straps operate to the full range of movement as per the original Clio application? I.E. Is the 2 stage "checking" mechanism deployed when the door's opened? .
Sorry for such a delayed reply. The door check straps are actually 'Peugeot 206 Door Hinge Stop Check Strap Front 3DR 5DR N/S O/S 9181C8'. These may well be shared with other cars but these are the ones I ordered! On the drivers door I shortened the check strap by cutting and welding an overlap that resulted in the fully open position providing a few millimetres clearance from the front clam shell.
The passenger door doesn't open quite so far. The passenger door only has one stage of opening but the drivers door has two stages.
Last edited by Paul Eustace; 14-10-2015 at 19:55.
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