Hi Paul. Well done on the IVA.
Good tip on the reluctor ring. I guess the more pulses there are the more accurate and steady the signal?
Do you have the welded top front shock bracket or bolt on triangular brackets?
What open and closed lengths are the front shocks?
I did use Clio check links. Bit fiddly to fit but do the job well. Can post pic if you like?
Corse S's always had the welded on front damper brackets, the I's were the ones with the bolt on option. (Citation needed).
"You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead"
Stan Laurel
Well that's exactly what I thought, but as it happens, I put the phone down only half an hour ago after talking to someone with a different set up!
Hence the question....
Post Litton then?
"You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead"
Stan Laurel
Not on the "I" chassis number 33 oddball - welded front and rear.Originally Posted by Strat Fan
Whilst I am waiting for my registration application to be processed by the DVLA K&R team I have been working through my jobs list.
I have fitted my engine steady bar and the clutch footrest.
I extended the standard Lancia Beta engine bar and brought new bushes from Beta Boyz. The Lancia bracket which is normally mounted on the end of the cylinder head has been welded to a plate I fabricated and bolted to the bell housing. If the steady bar had remained on the cylinder head it is highly likely that the head gasket would fail due to the stress the steady bar applies to the end of the head.
I have also correctly aligned the headlamp shells in the pods and now have the headlamp pods nicely aligned with the front clam bodywork.
The countdown continues to a registration number plate!
Last week I received my V5C and I am on the road! I am delighted with the way it drives and even in 'Engine Break-In' mode the engine is really crisp and is clearly going to be lots of fun. No oil or coolant leaks, plugs look ok, gear change is a little stiff but will likely improve, the new drivers seat set up with 'Recaro Double Locking Runners' has provided slightly increased headroom and adjustment to enable my sons to drive!
I have at this stage only driven around the local lanes but unfortunately I must now return the car to my workshop for a couple of days whilst I modify the rear clam bodywork. The bodywork does not have sufficient clearance to accommodate the exhaust system as you can see from the photograph below.
When Lance of OJZ Engineering discussed the design of this system we agreed that I would modify the rear bodywork to provide clearance. I was fooling myself by hoping that the bodywork heat shield and Zircotec coating would suffice. There are no short cuts!
Here are some photographs of the fibreglass modification to the rear clam bodywork to accommodate the exhaust system.
I now have a good 50mm plus of clearance between the exhaust headers and the bodywork. The increase in airflow in the engine bay can only help maintain an acceptable engine bay temperature.
I glassed the recess from inside the boot is case you are wondering how it was stuck in place!
After a good few miles driving I checked the bodywork temperature and 52C was the highest I measured so I am happy with that.
My current problem is a coolant hose collapse! When ticking over and running slowly, less than 3,000rpm, the coolant hoses maintain their form and coolant temperature is ok. When I hit 4,000rpm the temperature gauge starts to climb and as soon as I slow the revs the temperature falls back in a couple of seconds to 80C! I believe the water pump is sucking a hose flat. When I stop and jump out with my infrared temperature gauge all the coolant pipes are at around 50C with the exception of the top rail!
The car will tick-over all day at a maximum of 85C!
Last edited by Paul Eustace; 17-11-2015 at 10:29.
I have finally resolved my over heating problems. I installed a Davies Craig electric water pump (EWP80) in tandem with the MonteCarlo mechanical coolant pump.
I drilled two 5mm holes in the in-head thermostat to enable the EWP80 to run even when the thermostat is closed.
I installed the EWP in the radiator return pipework by the radiator. The pump is orientated such that air cannot be trapped near the pump gland.
I have replaced the cylinder head over temperature switch with the Davies Craig temperature sensor putting the sensor right at the top of the cylinder head.
I fitted the pump controller in the centre console in front of the gear lever.
I am currently using a target coolant temperature of 85C. At 65C the pump runs for 10 seconds at 6 volts and then lies dormant for 10 seconds. At 80C the pump runs at 6 volts and increases linearly to 12 volts at 85C.
The coolant temperature now remains between 75C and 78C. The oil temperature is very similar.
I have also applied Zircotec's ZircoFlex sheet to chassis tubes and the coolant pump inlet pipework to stop the exhaust manifold heating the coolant.
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