Litton Corse build with 2.0l Lancia 8v TC

[Lancialulu]

Paul will you bring to the Bell today for a nose!

Tim

Well I have now installed a Lifeline 360 3kg fire extinguisher. I selected this system as the kit includes everything you need and uses Novec™1230 suppressant.

The push fit pipework is really easy to use although I did buy some additional 90 degree elbows to make the pipe runs as neat as possible.

I fitted the cockpit nozzles into the footwell on the heater air distribution box. Two of the engine bay nozzles are located either side of the engine with one of these pointing at the exhaust system. The third engine bay nozzle is aimed at the carburettors. The fuel tanks get plenty of coverage.

Whilst installing this system I took the opportunity to redesign the centre console and improve the gear change mount points. The gear change is much improved.

[Paul Eustace]

Below are some photographs of my recent work to fit an OBP accelerator pedal, finally install the remote brake balance bar control and fit a partial restrictor into the Laminova oil/coolant heat exchanger.
The oil temperature would rise to 90-95C when using the power. The coolant temperature always remains constant at 75-80C so I surmised that the Laminova needed more coolant passing through it's capillaries.
Having driven a couple of hundred miles since fitting the partial restrictor I can confirm the oil temperature never exceeds 85C and usually runs around 80C.

[Paul Eustace]

With a little time on my hands I decided to sort out a few issues. Front clam poor fitment, mud flaps to big and ugly, car is too high and the rear dampers are shot. The car has been on the road for 5 years so it is about time for action.
I modified the front clam mounts and removed the spacers I had fitted between the chassis and the front clam. I am very pleased that I managed level the front of the clam and move it right to get a reasonably good fit.
I cut down the mud flaps as they had remained in their, 'miles to big', original state which ensured I passed the IVA inspection.
Sent the rear Leda dampers off to Leda for testing and servicing. I received a very impressive report and Leda is working on returning them with modern internals. I have also bought shorter springs to enable me to attain the correct ride height.
I have bought a pair of 15" Protech Shocks for the front, again with shorter springs to enable me to get the front ride height down. I am awaiting delivery of some bushes from a local machine shop as I need to raise the damper mount on the track control arms. The modern alloy shocks require more point clearance than my existing antique steel dampers.
I also checked camber, castor and bump steer, just for fun.
I am hoping the FORC Snetterton track evening goes ahead at the end of June as I would like to take part. I entered the FORC Snetterton 100 Sprint last year and I want to get the suspension sorted before this years run.
I should say 'Thanks', to Craig White for his help in determining the correct damper and spring specifications.

[Bernard]

All looking very impressive Paul !

[colleyv12]

Paul, how did you adjust the front clam point, been looking at mine all weekend, tried adding and removing shims, moving pivot point etc, but is doesn't want to move towards the passenger side at all

Considering just extending the bonnet edge out to compensate

[Paul Eustace]

Hi,
I needed my front clam to move right. I removed all the shims, washers, spacers. Then, with the LHS bolt just in it's nut far enough to engage the nyloc I simply wound the RHS bolt in until the clam lined up. Next I tightened the LHS bolt just enough to take up all the slack. You don't really need the spacers as each bolt prevents the clam moving left or right. One day I will probably get around the fitting them again but every time I remove the front clam they are a real pain.

[Paul Eustace]

I repositioning the front damper mounts on the track control arms by welding bushes a few mm's higher than the original mount points. I had to do this as I replaced the original steel dampers with Protech alloy 400 series dampers. The alloy damper mounts require more clearance. The Protech dampers are 1.5" shorter than the original dampers. I had far too much droop and needed shorter springs to enable me to achieve a lower ride height.

[colleyv12]

Hi,
I needed my front clam to move right. I removed all the shims, washers, spacers. Then, with the LHS bolt just in it's nut far enough to engage the nyloc I simply wound the RHS bolt in until the clam lined up. Next I tightened the LHS bolt just enough to take up all the slack. You don't really need the spacers as each bolt prevents the clam moving left or right. One day I will probably get around the fitting them again but every time I remove the front clam they are a real pain.

Thanks Paul, think yours is different to mine, or mine is wrong, I attached a drawing of the setup, but the bolt that goes through the frame goes into the threaded both sides bolt then the clam, then a washer then the large nut

But the bolt is not threaded in the frame so tightening it or loosening it just moves the bolt in and out, doesn't affect the position of the part that goes through the clam, any ideas

[john]

I think the idea of the big ( M20?) bolt and large diameter washers was to allow some adjustment of its position in the fibreglass. You drilled the fibreglass oversize, assembled the M20 bolt, washers and nut, then adjusted the position of body against the pivot point in the frame before clamping them up tight.
On Frederics car I just used the bolt through the frame as a pivot point and didnt fit a nut. I drilled it through and put an R clip through the bolt shank on the inside of the chassis pivot tube to stop it sliding out. To remove the front end then you just pulled the R clips, slid the bolts out and lifted away.
I dont recall a lot if effort to get it all lined up but maybe I was just lucky. I had done a fair bit of re-shaping on the front clam so probably got rid of mis-fit there.
If you have enough thread on the M20 bolts you could add washers behind the bolt head to align the clam laterally, then use the pivot bolts as I did.