Paul, how did you adjust the front clam point, been looking at mine all weekend, tried adding and removing shims, moving pivot point etc, but is doesn't want to move towards the passenger side at all
Considering just extending the bonnet edge out to compensate
Hi,
I needed my front clam to move right. I removed all the shims, washers, spacers. Then, with the LHS bolt just in it's nut far enough to engage the nyloc I simply wound the RHS bolt in until the clam lined up. Next I tightened the LHS bolt just enough to take up all the slack. You don't really need the spacers as each bolt prevents the clam moving left or right. One day I will probably get around the fitting them again but every time I remove the front clam they are a real pain.
I repositioning the front damper mounts on the track control arms by welding bushes a few mm's higher than the original mount points. I had to do this as I replaced the original steel dampers with Protech alloy 400 series dampers. The alloy damper mounts require more clearance. The Protech dampers are 1.5" shorter than the original dampers. I had far too much droop and needed shorter springs to enable me to achieve a lower ride height.
Last edited by Paul Eustace; 31-05-2020 at 23:46.
Thanks Paul, think yours is different to mine, or mine is wrong, I attached a drawing of the setup, but the bolt that goes through the frame goes into the threaded both sides bolt then the clam, then a washer then the large nutOriginally Posted by Paul Eustace
But the bolt is not threaded in the frame so tightening it or loosening it just moves the bolt in and out, doesn't affect the position of the part that goes through the clam, any ideas
I think the idea of the big ( M20?) bolt and large diameter washers was to allow some adjustment of its position in the fibreglass. You drilled the fibreglass oversize, assembled the M20 bolt, washers and nut, then adjusted the position of body against the pivot point in the frame before clamping them up tight.
On Frederics car I just used the bolt through the frame as a pivot point and didnt fit a nut. I drilled it through and put an R clip through the bolt shank on the inside of the chassis pivot tube to stop it sliding out. To remove the front end then you just pulled the R clips, slid the bolts out and lifted away.
I dont recall a lot if effort to get it all lined up but maybe I was just lucky. I had done a fair bit of re-shaping on the front clam so probably got rid of mis-fit there.
If you have enough thread on the M20 bolts you could add washers behind the bolt head to align the clam laterally, then use the pivot bolts as I did.
About right, the clam is over drilled and I have movement up/down etc, but it is not moving the clam around to the left so the rear left tip of the front clam is too far forward from the door aperature
Think i will get the fiberglass out and re-profile the trailing edge of the clam to make it look right
I think that was more or less standard practice on Corse bodywork, Steve.
Probably a lot less trouble in the end.
My clam has about 12-15mm of clearance, each side, between the 'Clam' and 'Frame' in your sketch. I have simply tightened one bolt until there is 1mm of clearance on one side, this moved the clam 11-14mm to the right in my case. This was all I needed to centre the clam on the windscreen.
Looking at your drawing I would have thought you could do the same?
If the tube welded to the chassis, is the only thing preventing the clam moving sideways, I would consider grinding this in preference to playing with fibreglass.....
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