Getting off my arse

[Paul]

Hi Corky
There's supposed to be a wire spring clip retainer for the Ford front brake pads. It's missing on the photos, so just wondering if you have that part? I ask because in my case, what came with the pads was not correct (or not included - I can't remember) and I had a hard time tracking down the correct part due to multiple variants. If you need it, I'll have a spare shortly when I get round to my planned brake upgrades

Splash guards look good - you'll probably need to trim the tops and side to provide a consistent gap for the rubber seal between the top edge and the front clam once you put that in place
Regards
Paul

[tipo158]

Hi Corky
There's supposed to be a wire spring clip retainer for the Ford front brake pads. It's missing on the photos, so just wondering if you have that part? I ask because in my case, what came with the pads was not correct (or not included - I can't remember) and I had a hard time tracking down the correct part due to multiple variants. If you need it, I'll have a spare shortly when I get round to my planned brake upgrades

Splash guards look good - you'll probably need to trim the tops and side to provide a consistent gap for the rubber seal between the top edge and the front clam once you put that in place
Regards
Paul

Not sure what spring clip you are talking about, maybe you can show me next time you drop by. Yea, I need to sand down the final area to be removed, it is close, but I need to put s section of the seal in place to see what I need to remove.

Corky

[tipo158]

I finished putting on the mud flaps, the left side rubs a lot, the right side just a little.

[Paul]

Corky,
If you haven't done so already, I'd recommend removing the springs from the damper units and moving the wheels from full droop to full bump to check if any other clearance issues. I mention this because in my case I had to remove and 'resculpt' a few areas of the bodywork to ensure clearance (one side more so than the other!).
Also, increasing rear toe-in by shortening the trailing link has the effect of also pulling the wheel forward slightly, so if rear toe is currently off, it may explain why one wheel is closer to the mud-flap than the other

[tipo158]

Corky,
If you haven't done so already, I'd recommend removing the springs from the damper units and moving the wheels from full droop to full bump to check if any other clearance issues. I mention this because in my case I had to remove and 'resculpt' a few areas of the bodywork to ensure clearance (one side more so than the other!).
Also, increasing rear toe-in by shortening the trailing link has the effect of also pulling the wheel forward slightly, so if rear toe is currently off, it may explain why one wheel is closer to the mud-flap than the other

Haven't done that yet, but I'm sure that I will have to resculpt the area. Was the left side (US driver side) that you had to do more work to?

Corky

[strat24v]

Rather than haacking into finished bodywork, would it be easier to modify your wishbones to move the whole corner?

[Strat Fan]

From the pictures it appears as though there is too much toe out on the rear wheels, don't modify the bodywork until the wheels are positioned correctly!
The reverse "A" arm design of the lower rear wishbone moves the wheel around a lot in the arch as the toe is adjusted, I would spend my time trying to achieve the correct amount of toe (20 minutes toe in!) & combine this with positioning the wheel correctly in the arch at the same time before anything else is considered.
Paul's rear wheels rubbed on the centre tub where the wheel had moved forward to achieve the toe in required, the wheels should be no where near the rear mudflaps when set up correctly.