Getting off my arse

**tipo158** · 31-08-2015, 17:56

Originally Posted by Strat Fan

From the pictures it appears as though there is too much toe out on the rear wheels, don't modify the bodywork until the wheels are positioned correctly!
The reverse "A" arm design of the lower rear wishbone moves the wheel around a lot in the arch as the toe is adjusted, I would spend my time trying to achieve the correct amount of toe (20 minutes toe in!) & combine this with positioning the wheel correctly in the arch at the same time before anything else is considered.
Paul's rear wheels rubbed on the centre tub where the wheel had moved forward to achieve the toe in required, the wheels should be no where near the rear mudflaps when set up correctly.

The car is on jack stands, not sitting on the ground. I don't seem to have a clearance problem in the rear, just the front when turning the wheels lock to lock.

Corky

**Paul** · 31-08-2015, 21:28

Craig summarized it more clearly than I did. And just to clarify, by 'rescupting' bodywork, it was the inner flange surfaces that needed a little trimming to deal with rubbing at full bump, nothing on the outside visible surfaces. But definitely get the toe-in adjusted first - it makes a big difference to where the wheel sits in the arch if it's off. Also check that each wheel is the same distance out from the suspension pickup points, and adjust the top and bottom rod ends if necessary to achieve this.

**tipo158** · 01-09-2015, 03:02

I have not gotten around to setting up the proper alignment, so that might be the next phase.

Corky

**bosmass** · 01-09-2015, 17:05

What I ended up doing before I put the body on was getting the wheels set up in acceptable positions, at least to my eye. Basically as close as possible toe, camber etc. still all by eye. I also matched adjustments side to side so that if i ended up making changes on one side I was pretty sure of what the other was going to be. On my kit which is all Lister Bell, there were only changes made to the interior wheel well panels to clear the rear tires (15" wide oem style) on full shock.

With all of that being said, now my engine is in the suspension has settled more and things need a final adjustment. I think there is a newer dimension sheet that shows the optimal set up. I saw it posted a few months ago.

**tipo158** · 01-09-2015, 20:58

Originally Posted by bosmass

What I ended up doing before I put the body on was getting the wheels set up in acceptable positions, at least to my eye. Basically as close as possible toe, camber etc. still all by eye. I also matched adjustments side to side so that if i ended up making changes on one side I was pretty sure of what the other was going to be. On my kit which is all Lister Bell, there were only changes made to the interior wheel well panels to clear the rear tires (15" wide oem style) on full shock.

With all of that being said, now my engine is in the suspension has settled more and things need a final adjustment. I think there is a newer dimension sheet that shows the optimal set up. I saw it posted a few months ago.

Yes, I did the visual close setup also, just haven't done the final, by the numbers, setup. Paul and I have a similar setup, Corse chassis's with Lister-Bell bodies.

Corky

**tipo158** · 20-09-2015, 20:34

I have decided to go with an in tank fuel pump, but as you can see from the photo, the leads for the pump are a little short. I had a hard time finding the correct in fuel tank wire, but finally located some. They listed their wire to be purchased by the foot with a ten foot minimum, so since I only needed about 3 feet, I ordered the minimum, the other photo is what they sent me. I'd be willing to bet that there is more then ten feet on each spool. Now I am waiting for the gland to put through the plate so that I can pass the wires through it.

**tipo158** · 24-09-2015, 23:14

Well, I thought I had all the parts to finish the tank. Needed new connectors for the longer wires for the fuel pump and couldn't find them locally so I had to order them on the internet. The round over valve needed a bulkhead fitting like I told the man at the speed shop (who assured me I didn't). So I located the gland for the wires to path through the tank top as well as the location for the rollover valve. In the photo, the black and blue piece is the out flow of the tank, the blue and red piece in the return line, the blue, red and gold piece is the rollover valve, the black piece is the gland for the wiring. So, sometime next week, the rest of the parts should get here and I can put the tank back together.

Corky