Getting off my arse

[tipo158]

Hi Corky
There's supposed to be a wire spring clip retainer for the Ford front brake pads. It's missing on the photos, so just wondering if you have that part? I ask because in my case, what came with the pads was not correct (or not included - I can't remember) and I had a hard time tracking down the correct part due to multiple variants. If you need it, I'll have a spare shortly when I get round to my planned brake upgrades

Splash guards look good - you'll probably need to trim the tops and side to provide a consistent gap for the rubber seal between the top edge and the front clam once you put that in place
Regards
Paul

Not sure what spring clip you are talking about, maybe you can show me next time you drop by. Yea, I need to sand down the final area to be removed, it is close, but I need to put s section of the seal in place to see what I need to remove.

Corky

[tipo158]

I finished putting on the mud flaps, the left side rubs a lot, the right side just a little.

[Paul]

Corky,
If you haven't done so already, I'd recommend removing the springs from the damper units and moving the wheels from full droop to full bump to check if any other clearance issues. I mention this because in my case I had to remove and 'resculpt' a few areas of the bodywork to ensure clearance (one side more so than the other!).
Also, increasing rear toe-in by shortening the trailing link has the effect of also pulling the wheel forward slightly, so if rear toe is currently off, it may explain why one wheel is closer to the mud-flap than the other

[tipo158]

Corky,
If you haven't done so already, I'd recommend removing the springs from the damper units and moving the wheels from full droop to full bump to check if any other clearance issues. I mention this because in my case I had to remove and 'resculpt' a few areas of the bodywork to ensure clearance (one side more so than the other!).
Also, increasing rear toe-in by shortening the trailing link has the effect of also pulling the wheel forward slightly, so if rear toe is currently off, it may explain why one wheel is closer to the mud-flap than the other

Haven't done that yet, but I'm sure that I will have to resculpt the area. Was the left side (US driver side) that you had to do more work to?

Corky

[strat24v]

Rather than haacking into finished bodywork, would it be easier to modify your wishbones to move the whole corner?

[Strat Fan]

From the pictures it appears as though there is too much toe out on the rear wheels, don't modify the bodywork until the wheels are positioned correctly!
The reverse "A" arm design of the lower rear wishbone moves the wheel around a lot in the arch as the toe is adjusted, I would spend my time trying to achieve the correct amount of toe (20 minutes toe in!) & combine this with positioning the wheel correctly in the arch at the same time before anything else is considered.
Paul's rear wheels rubbed on the centre tub where the wheel had moved forward to achieve the toe in required, the wheels should be no where near the rear mudflaps when set up correctly.

[tipo158]

From the pictures it appears as though there is too much toe out on the rear wheels, don't modify the bodywork until the wheels are positioned correctly!
The reverse "A" arm design of the lower rear wishbone moves the wheel around a lot in the arch as the toe is adjusted, I would spend my time trying to achieve the correct amount of toe (20 minutes toe in!) & combine this with positioning the wheel correctly in the arch at the same time before anything else is considered.
Paul's rear wheels rubbed on the centre tub where the wheel had moved forward to achieve the toe in required, the wheels should be no where near the rear mudflaps when set up correctly.

The car is on jack stands, not sitting on the ground. I don't seem to have a clearance problem in the rear, just the front when turning the wheels lock to lock.

Corky

[Paul]

Craig summarized it more clearly than I did. And just to clarify, by 'rescupting' bodywork, it was the inner flange surfaces that needed a little trimming to deal with rubbing at full bump, nothing on the outside visible surfaces. But definitely get the toe-in adjusted first - it makes a big difference to where the wheel sits in the arch if it's off. Also check that each wheel is the same distance out from the suspension pickup points, and adjust the top and bottom rod ends if necessary to achieve this.

[tipo158]

I have not gotten around to setting up the proper alignment, so that might be the next phase.

Corky

[bosmass]

What I ended up doing before I put the body on was getting the wheels set up in acceptable positions, at least to my eye. Basically as close as possible toe, camber etc. still all by eye. I also matched adjustments side to side so that if i ended up making changes on one side I was pretty sure of what the other was going to be. On my kit which is all Lister Bell, there were only changes made to the interior wheel well panels to clear the rear tires (15" wide oem style) on full shock.

With all of that being said, now my engine is in the suspension has settled more and things need a final adjustment. I think there is a newer dimension sheet that shows the optimal set up. I saw it posted a few months ago.