If its not hitting the outer body then its easier to modify the fibreglass to gain clearance for the wheel.
I am only guessing to some degree but it sounds as though you still have too much droop on the suspension to achieve clearance on the tyre at full bump.
With the ride height you are running you already have 40mm of droop on the driveshaft, add to that a further 50mm of actual droop and that is 90mm of droop on the drive shaft which has got to be less than ideal.
Any body mod that is not external can either be painted in with an aerosol or covered with a stone chip material to hide the modification.
If your dampers were 16.5" open and 10.5" closed then you had 6" of travel at the damper (less the bump stop), on a Corse the wheel to damper ratio is 1.4:1 approx. so you effectively had 8.4" of wheel movement which is almost 4" more than you require. If you have had the damper reduced to 14.5" open length and they are still 10.5" closed then you now have 4" of damper travel which equates to 5.6" of wheel movement which is still more than you need but you can limit this with the bump stops as you have mentioned.
I would be looking to either reduce the ride height by modifying the inner arch shape or I would be looking to move the wheel rearward slightly provided this does not move the wheel from the centre of the arch.
Too much droop cannot be good for the shafts or the geometry
I would also like to know that your drive shafts are the correct length because a shaft which is too short risks the balls being pulled out of the race and this will then break the retaining cage.
"You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead"
Stan Laurel
Thank you Andrew,
I had wondered if phasing would help prevent the shafts thrusting.
If it helps buy a few degrees as well then this would be good is Steve's installation.
Regards
"You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead"
Stan Laurel
May well be all covered but its worth double checking.
I have a note that's has been on my whiteboard in the garage for 18 months that say's 16.5" shock! Why? even a 14" does 6" travel with the 1.36 ratio. I have a few sketches and thoughts to reduce the leverage ratio, bring the required spring poundages down, give the dampers and easier life and also reduce the travel - 3 droop and 2+1(bump stop) I do not want to limit droop and loose travel in roll - which is where a rear ARB may also help in this situation.
Lots of articulation may have been the aim to give better performance when yumping through a forest but I have no idea if that was the actual aim of the DWB rear. But I do like that the Prototype had it first
Is the engine a little high at the gearbox end or is that just the photo angle.
There are plenty of improvements that can be made to the independent rear set up, toe adjustment, damper position, geometry, travel etc etc.
I don't understand the long damper especially when its combined with the wishbone ratio.
The top wishbone is not really long enough to account for 8" of wheel movement and this amount of travel will certainly push the CV's close to their limits.
Neil had just changed his rear dampers and added a rear anti roll bar but I do not know what the dimensions and the outcome/results were.
For me the upper wishbone inner pivot on the Alfa cradle is too high on the chassis which makes the wishbone almost horizontal even at a normal ride height. The Honda cradle on yours however may well be different.
Anyway before we go off topic and reinvent the double wishbone chassis...….
Last edited by Strat Fan; 24-05-2018 at 11:30.
"You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead"
Stan Laurel
Right
Inner and outer CVs on both left and right drive shafts check, and left(the short side) both replaced.
Both calipers off, checked, copperslipped etc and refitted.
Dampers lowered so less misalignment on CVs.
Go 100yds and still bang! (feels like large heavy hammer thump on car) and feeling that something is sticking/dragging.
Stop the car, jump out and it pushes/rolls in both directions no trouble.
Turn round and drive home, and all OK.
WTF is going on?
Jacked the rear of the car up, both wheels off ground and put car in gear.
Turning one wheel, there is probably 5mm of rim rotation before a clunk and the other wheel starts to turn in the other direction.
Could I have an intermittent differential problem?
Can i take the cover off with engine in situ and inspect it?
Anyone have any instructions on how to get it out, and if I do should I put LSD in.
The box and diff was new (supposedly) when I bought all the bits.
Steve
That does sound like diff problems or a shaft bearing problem.
I guess wheel bearings in the uprights next before I start on the diff or the clutch.
It is just so weird. As soon as i stop the car rolls freely. I drive home, jack it up and there are no funny noises, no signs of rubbing. Nothing!
Steve
If you've already jacked it up and turned the wheels then you would have felt something on the wheel bearings.
It could well be a faulty diff and the standard ones can fail (I have one that has let go on a 3.2 GT) see - http://www.autolusso.co.uk/gearbox-rebuilds.html In this case the car went with a bang and lost drive, I then managed to engage a gear and limped it home before it would not drive anymore. In my case it is terminal but if it is your diff failing then you may be able to save your gearbox by checking now. As they say swapping to the Quaife helps prevent this failure.
You should be able to drop the diff without removing the box from the car, it is possible in the other replicas so you could be lucky.
The fact that one wheel goes the opposite way when you turn the other suggests that at least some of the parts are where they are supposed to be. You would still be able to push the car back and forth irrespectively, it is just when you try to drive the car that the problem would arise.
Happy hunting
"You can lead a horse to water, but a pencil must be lead"
Stan Laurel
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