It's a bit like "Where's Wally?"
There he is!
The attached shows where the top suspension pivots are known to break away on these old chassis.
Hence Craig and I's work on the rear cradle redesign.
You might want to beef this area up before you paint it.
Other picture shows the new design.
The redesign is a complete new cradle from the roll cage backwards. A bit impractical for you I'd suggest.
I'd work on re-inforcing those pivot tubes where they are just welded to the side of the box section, and try and support the forward end of that tube with additional tube, or just some triangulation which picks up the top wishbone front pivot.
I don't have any pictures of either Tim Pages or Neil's (Arthur's) work which addressed this issue on their chassis', but they may be along with something for you....
Last edited by turbonutter; 31-12-2011 at 15:32.
Hi John,
Just been having a closer look at the suspension pickups on my chassis & have spotted a potential problem on the off side the tube for mounting the top rear wishbone is parallel to the chassis, but on the near side, the tube is at an angle the front being 2cm further out than the rear. I assume that this is a result of the broken parts being welded back where they were and not re-aligned first. This will move the top of the upright rearwards slightly as the suspension rises which as far as I can work out is not a good idea, I believe it could cause some rear wheel steering ? What do you think? At least I have spotted it now, so although I dont want to do anymore welding, its something that can be corrected if necessary... before i install the engine....
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Thinking again....... the top wont move back when the suspension rises - it will be further back permenantly, so could be sorted with a few mm spacer on the top between the upright & joint, to get the wheels in the same place......?????????
Ughhh!, not nice really Neil.
I would have thought it would induce some bump steer as the top of the upright will move about as the wishbone moves through it's arc. Spacers will get the wheel in the right place at static ride height, say, but it's a dynamic part isn't it?
It's still parallel to the chassis base plane is it?
I'm not an expert here mind...except in opening cans of worms!
Like you say, the new bracing looks pretty effective so moving the pivot tube back into parallel ain't going to be an easy fix.
I'd have to do it on my own car.
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