Really useful comments - thanks guys (and Guy! )
Chris - I would never have thought velcro would be up to the job for footrests !
Passenger side Lotus Elise foot rests are held in with velcro.
Really useful comments - thanks guys (and Guy! )
Chris - I would never have thought velcro would be up to the job for footrests !
If you think about it, how hard is it to "unstick" velcro when you're trying to push "along" the mating surface (i.e. trying to detach the whole thing in one go)? The only reason you can unpeel it fairly easily is because you're separating just a small amount at a time. As Chris found out with the Elise, it's very, very strong, so that's why I thought it'd work for the inner door skins.
Talking of which, don't the inners hang off the top edge of the main door moulding, and that takes most of the weight? Must say I've not looked at the LB setup, but it's how Alloras work.
Norm - yes the windows hang from the top edge of the inner door panels but the load is shared by the sliders (as I'm sure you can recall) - but there will also be a lateral load - and as Craig reminded me, tension in the glass caused by door slamming whether intentional or accidental. The weight and shape of the glass windows makes them unwieldy and heavy and my concern is that they should be adequately and securely supported under all normal operating conditions - but you may be right about the velcro - it's just that I dont intend to use it !
Glass windows really are worth having Peter, as I've said to you.
They make a real difference to the feel of the car. Definitely worth some extra effort.
I didn't even know LB had a glass window option. Wonder if they will fit my bodywork?
John - I believe the new glass side windows will only fit into the new-mould doors, so if you've got an old set, they won't go. But knowing you, I bet you'll be able to make your own up from melting down a few old beer and wine bottles you've still got hanging about since Crimbo.... probably end up nicely tinted too, depending which ones you choose
Might be a step too far Norm, we do have a source locally which can drill, shape and curve glass but I'm kinda thinkin life's too short. Especially at the moment.
Sorry I'm late to the party guys, I'm new here, hi.
I've seen manufacturers like Reliant and TVR use "rivnuts" (rivet nuts) in years gone by, to secure fibreglass. In my experience though, unless they're used on thicker reinforced areas, they normally produce cracks in the material, due to expansion of the sleeve during the "rivetting" phase.
Airbus and Boeing use "anchor nuts". These are good because they provide a wider fixing area for the distribution of forces, but unfortunately need rivetting again which can lead to the aforementioned cracks, unless you were to forgo the rivetting, and secure them in place with fibreglass or an adhesive.
"Well nuts" are good anti-vibration mounts, but they result in a less attractive end result if they're visible after they're fitted.
"Jack nuts" and Versa Nuts" are probably a good option, (jack nuts if you're into weight saving!), as there's no expansion of the pilot hole required, but they do need more room behind the panel because they start off being a little longer than the other options.
A few are illustrated here (I'm not an affiliate):https://www.rivetwise.co.uk/rivets/rivet-nuts.asp
Velcro has been mentioned. Mclaren used 3M "Dual Lock" to secure the number plates on the F1 road cars. I've personally used it for numerous applications. It's great stuff, but not a "flush fit" option, unfortunately, it's quite thick. Also not recommended if the part is going to be removed on a regular basis, unless it's used sparingly.
Hope the above helps someone, sometime in the future.
Last edited by Willtord; 03-11-2020 at 07:21.
Most of the time in the aircraft industry they use wide foot anchor nuts held in place with 120’ counter sunk black alloy rivets which are very soft.
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