Quote Originally Posted by hollytree View Post
Craig
I had 16" dampers and got them shortened to 14.5". The problem is, that to stop the tyre hitting the body behind the door at the 10 o'clock position. Not the clamshell arch.
I also need 3 bump stops on the damper rod, that takes a lot of the travel straight out of the damper.
If its not hitting the outer body then its easier to modify the fibreglass to gain clearance for the wheel.
I am only guessing to some degree but it sounds as though you still have too much droop on the suspension to achieve clearance on the tyre at full bump.
With the ride height you are running you already have 40mm of droop on the driveshaft, add to that a further 50mm of actual droop and that is 90mm of droop on the drive shaft which has got to be less than ideal.
Any body mod that is not external can either be painted in with an aerosol or covered with a stone chip material to hide the modification.
If your dampers were 16.5" open and 10.5" closed then you had 6" of travel at the damper (less the bump stop), on a Corse the wheel to damper ratio is 1.4:1 approx. so you effectively had 8.4" of wheel movement which is almost 4" more than you require. If you have had the damper reduced to 14.5" open length and they are still 10.5" closed then you now have 4" of damper travel which equates to 5.6" of wheel movement which is still more than you need but you can limit this with the bump stops as you have mentioned.
I would be looking to either reduce the ride height by modifying the inner arch shape or I would be looking to move the wheel rearward slightly provided this does not move the wheel from the centre of the arch.
Too much droop cannot be good for the shafts or the geometry
I would also like to know that your drive shafts are the correct length because a shaft which is too short risks the balls being pulled out of the race and this will then break the retaining cage.