Cheap solution is to fit some sort of limiting strap; a droop limiting cable from lower spring pan to chassis or (depending on spring length) tie wrap the springs to lower and upper pans.
Cheap solution is to fit some sort of limiting strap; a droop limiting cable from lower spring pan to chassis or (depending on spring length) tie wrap the springs to lower and upper pans.
If damper if correctly determined ; its the shock absorber piston to be the stop to full extended stroke (to prevent CV and spherical bearings issues)?????
And probably as soon as springs are becoming stiffer and stiffer some "spring helper" will be need to leave residual pressure on main spring for centering it
As stated choice of springs have been always a "compromise" and a scratch head in beetwen "calculations"( so many sophisticated formulas existing )and "realty" ( only test can seriuosly help)
Last edited by LM mic; 16-12-2016 at 17:34.
I think I will be going for a correct damper extension. My research says the Gaz dampers have a 6 inch extension. I have spent the afternoon checking and measuring. Beyond 6 inches the drive shaft has no further play and starts to pull out of the inner CV joint at 7 inches it is possible to pull it right out due to the free movement gained in the inner joint. I am quite satisfied the installation of the engine is correct with shafts being horizontal with weight on the axle, and angled slightly back from the engine to rotate the cv ball bearing.
With 325 lb in springs they compress 2.5inches laden but without driver/passenger. I am happy with this as approximately the midpoint on a 5.75inch suspension travel.
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